Schiaparelli has a longstanding reputation for being one of the most avant-garde, subversive designer brands on the Paris Fashion Week schedule. While that isn’t changing, there was a new element present in the iconic fashion house’s S/S 27 collection: wearability.

While practically works of art, the Schiaparelli looks that you see on Nicole Kidman, Dua Lipa, Zendaya, and Kylie Jenner on the red carpet probably aren’t going to be all that wearable on someone without those levels of fame. And that’s perfectly fine—each fashion house serves a different purpose, and Schiaparelli doesn’t mass-produce the pieces you see on the runway each season. But this collection made it clear that creative director Daniel Roseberry decided to take things in a slightly different direction. It felt a bit softer and less surreal, without straying from the sense of drama that Elsa Schiaparelli established when she created her namesake brand. Roseberry gave an idea of his intentions, writing in the show notes, “As fashion designers, we become so attached to our vision that we spend less time thinking about the person who’ll ultimately wear it. The beauty of making such extraordinary clothes for such a limited number of stores is that that gap doesn’t exist: what we show is what we produce is what is purchased is what is worn. We don’t have a “commercial” collection. These are the clothes. The vision is complete when you put them on your back.”