Jay Song said the starting point of Songzio’s spring 2027 collection was a specific shade of green that’s between khaki and sage, which he imagined on a fearless, young soldier traveling from the past to warn about an ominous future. That shade, joined by citron, berry, and ink, lifted the brand’s usual black-and-white, avant-garde base.

Adding a softer touch to counterbalance the armor-like layering was a recurring theme running through the lineup. Bias-cut panels, asymmetric draped skirts and layered trousers formed complex dialogues with body-hugging pleats, overlapping jacket fronts, and modern tailoring inspired by the traditional Korean costume Hanbok.

“We try to play a lot with the contrast of fabric. In some cases, we have looks that almost seem very structured, but we try to soften that with a sense of fluidity or poetry, with natural fabrics and natural, asymmetrical drapes,” added Song.

The spring 2027 moment at the basement of Palais de Tokyo also sent an ambitious message on pushing further into womenswear, which took up roughly half of the runway offering.

“As an avant-garde brand, we always have a bigger chance with women. They are more adventurous with what they wear in terms of playing with silhouettes, and for us, the strength is in pattern, transforming the body. With women, we have greater freedom,” the designer said.