Zuhair Murad was seeking a softer, more relaxed version of his glamour girl this season.

Inspired by waves in the sea, the collection replaced heavily structured eveningwear with fluid jersey dresses, airy chiffon, sculptural draping and lots of tailored separates.

While Murad’s signature beadwork remained, it appeared with a lighter hand. Clean-cut gabardine gowns, streamlined jacquards and monochromatic looks reflected simpler styles that clients increasingly want. According to Murad, customers have a growing desire for more day and understated designs, as well as pieces that are versatile and not just for specific occasions.

That shift is particularly evident in his growing ready-to-wear offering, with more pared-back silhouettes that can be dressed up or down.

He approached the season with a softer palette of seafoam greens, blushy neutrals, deep blues and sandy metallics, although he kept a handful of bright pops to appeal to some longtime clients.

While Middle Eastern clients remain drawn to brighter shades as well as the house’s intricately beaded eveningwear, European and North American customers are increasingly gravitating toward cleaner, less embellished pieces. Here Murad created a wide range, allowing both aesthetics to coexist within the same collection.

Those regional tastes continue to shape his merchandising strategy, as well as the ongoing expansion of his accessories.

Resort introduced three new clutch silhouettes developed in response to client requests for handbags that match their dresses, alongside an expanding offer of belts and footwear that continues to build out the house’s lifestyle range.

Murad is still moving forward with plans to open a new Paris flagship later this year, with an official inauguration expected around the January couture shows.