MILAN — Tom Ford Fashion is expanding its footprint in the U.S. with the opening of stores in n San Diego and Costa Mesa, Calif., and Bal Harbour, Fla.

“The U.S. is a key market for Tom Ford Fashion and an important engine of our growth,” chief executive officer Lelio Gavazza told WWD.

Prior to the three openings, directly operated stores in the U.S. totaled 13 and globally, they amounted to 67.

The Estée Lauder Cos. is the sole owner of the Tom Ford brand, founded by the namesake designer in 2005, and has long-term licenses with the Ermenegildo Zegna Group for Tom Ford Fashion and with Italy’s Marcolin group for the brand’s eyewear collections.

In the first half, sales at the Zegna group, led by executive chairman Gildo Zegna, rose 6.4 percent to 987.3 million euros and on an organic basis, they rose 9.3 percent. Tom Ford Fashion recorded revenues of 156.8 million euros, up 2.7 percent year-over-year and gaining 6.4 percent increase in organic terms reflecting the success of the spring collection designed by creative director Haider Ackermann, appointed to the role in 2024.

His daring fall collection for the brand was presented in Paris on Wednesday as part of the city’s fashion week.

The group’s strategic decision to prioritize a retail-first business model and direct customer engagement has been paying back, and the Americas have delivered solid growth.

“The strength of the business comes from the combination of a powerful and distinctive brand, a loyal and highly engaged client base, and the continued evolution of our men’s and women’s collections,” said Gavazza. “Our direct-to-consumer model allows us to build closer relationships with our clients and translate strong brand desirability into sustained organic growth.”

The store in Costa Mesa, on the rotunda in Jewel Court in South Coast Plaza, opened on Wednesday, and offers the full range of product for both men and women, including ready-to-wear, leather goods, fragrance, beauty, eyewear and underwear.

Covering 4,428 square feet, its façade is characterized by Carrara Nuvolato marble, limestone plaster and polished chrome. Inside, each product category is differentiated: Newport white marble is seen in the women’s area, Cala Paonazzo in the cosmetics area, Calacatta in the fragrance and eyewear areas and black granite in the men’s area. Adding to a sense of warmth and intimacy, both men’s and women’s fashion spaces feature a generously sized fireplace in their own, separate lounges.

The three new boutiques will also offer made-to-measure garments, “an essential part of this proposition and a true differentiator for Tom Ford Fashion business,” Gavazza remarked. “It brings together our heritage of exceptional tailoring and craftsmanship, also leveraging on the Ermenegildo Zegna Group capabilities, and of personal service and bespoke client experience highly relevant to the American luxury consumer. Together with our ready-to-wear collections, it strengthens the relationship with our clients and reinforces Tom Ford’s position as a complete luxury fashion house.”

The stores at Bal Harbour Shops and at UTC Westfield in San Diego are opening later this month, and also offer ready-to-wear for men and women, leather goods, fragrance, beauty, eyewear and underwear.

Covering 3,456 square feet, the facade of the Bal Harbour store will be characterized by Himalayan white marble and polished chrome. Bleu de Savoie marble will mark the women’s area, Cala Paonazzo in the fragrance, cosmetics and eyewear areas and black granite in the men’s area. Open fireplaces will also stand in the separate lounges.

The entire product range will also be available in San Diego, a unit that will cover 3,240 square feet and that will feature the same blueprint as Bal Harbour. The facade will be characterized by Carrara Nuvolato marble, limestone plaster and polished chrome.

While investing in its directly operated retail network, the wholesale channel remains important for Tom Ford Fashion in the U.S., a market “where we maintain a selective, high-quality distribution that reflects the positioning and exclusivity of the brand,” said Gavazza.

“Looking ahead, however, we see retail and our direct-to-consumer channel as the primary drivers of growth. It allows us to deepen our relationship with our clients, deliver the full Tom Ford experience and continue to build the brand’s long-term potential in the market,” remarked the executive, who joined the brand in September 2023. He was previously executive vice president, sales and retail at jeweler Bulgari.

In July, the Zegna group CEO Gianluca Tagliabue said the company is “pumping up the volume” on Tom Ford Fashion, raising visibility and brand awareness, and also banking on the opening of the Paris store in January, “which will amplify the message.” He said the brand’s women’s ready-to-wear category is the one “growing the most” and that there are “untapped daywear opportunities” for it. Also, there is a focus on made-to-measure and on women’s tailoring, with “short lead time and the potential to expand the brand’s client base.”

The Estée Lauder Cos. in November 2022 acquired Tom Ford’s company in a deal valued at $2.8 billion. Lauder has owned Tom Ford Beauty since 2006.

Before this transaction, the Zegna group held the license for Tom Ford’s menswear. Publicly traded in New York, the group owns the Zegna brand and the Thom Browne business.