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When choosing steaks for the grill or otherwise, there are certain maxims you should always follow.
“Three key things to look for,” says Christopher Robert, executive chef at Queen Miami Beach, regardless of whether you’re in the market for sirloin or skirt steak.
“First is marbling — consistent white veins of fat throughout the cut that define the flavor. Second is color,” he says. “You want to look for a deep red rather than gray, brown, or pink. Finally, the meat should appear dry rather than wet, which indicates it has been handled properly.”
There are also pitfalls to avoid universally among various cuts. “Cooking the steak straight from the fridge and failing to let it rest afterward are the most common mistakes,” Robert says. “These both stem from a fundamental error, which is not respecting temperature.”
There are also best practices for grilling that apply to all steaks. When you’re not in the mood to consult a specific procedure, having clean grill grates, patting the meat dry, applying liberal seasoning, and cooking over high heat for a good sear, followed by the necessary rest, will work for most cuts.
But here we’re not interested in the generic sense of “most cuts.” Here, we’re getting into the nitty-gritty of chef opinions on the absolute best way to cook each kind of steak, and the nuances that separate the ribeye from the round, and the grill masters from the “good effort.”
Ribeye: Wood fire
Ribeye does well when cooked over high heat, which makes wood-fired and pellet grills strong candidates.
Look, ribeye is the most universally revered grilling steak for a reason: Its extensive marbling and rich flavor are exactly what make you salivate when you hear the words “juicy steak.” But if you want to do it the most justice on the grill, forgo gas and charcoal and go with wood instead.
“I always start a ribeye over a real wood fire so I can get that high heat and build a deep, flavorful crust without overcooking the inside,” says Tucker Brown, a sixth-generation Texas rancher and ambassador for Beef. It’s What’s for Dinner. “I prefer wood over propane because it burns hotter and adds a natural smokiness that complements the richness of a ribeye in a way gas just can’t match.”
“The key is to let the steak sear over direct heat, then move it to a cooler spot to finish, so the marbling has time to render and keep the steak juicy,” he adds. “My favorite combination is a ribeye cooked over mesquite wood because it delivers an earthy flavor that holds its own with this rich cut of steak. Oak and hickory are also tasty options for a slightly milder smoke, and pecan can deliver a softer, subtly sweet profile.”
Flat iron: Hot and fast with compound butter
Hit a flat iron with compound butter before putting it on a hot grill.
It bears mentioning that more than one chef profiled here gave props to the flat iron steak for being the most universally underrated.
“The flat iron steak has the most flavor and tenderness per dollar of any beef cut,” says Brad Baych, YouTube’s Butcher Wizard and author of Primal Cuts: A Butcher’s Guide to Selecting, Preparing, and Perfecting Beef. “It is found in the chuck, so it is automatically cheaper, but unlike other budget steaks, it is very tender. Because it is a thinner steak, it’s best cooked over open fire hot and fast, and lightly brushed with a little herb compound butter.”
On that note, not every steak can dance with compound butter on the grill and still be worth the effort. “Because it doesn’t have the ribeye’s fat running through it, it actually picks up a compound butter or a heavy herb crust in a way a ribeye never would,” says Katie Flannery, COO of Flannery Beef. “We’ll do garlic, thyme and good butter, and let it work into the meat before it hits the grill.”
Filet mignon: Dual zone, butter baste
Filet mignon is one of the more challenging steaks to cook. The chefs I spoke with recommend a dual-zone approach.
From one of the cheapest cuts to the most expensive, “people always want to treat the filet like it’s precious, but the problem is it actually is,” says Flannery. “There’s no fat in that muscle to protect it, so a flare-up or 30 seconds of inattention and you’ve got a $40 piece of beef that chews like a sponge. What I do is use a two-zone fire and bring it up slowly on the cool side first, then sear it hard at the end.”
“Filet is naturally lean and a bit more subtle in flavor, so the mistake is treating it like a ribeye and expecting the same result,” says Jorge Thomas, founder of Swaledale Butchers. In addition to the dual-zone method that gives the filet the gentle treatment it wants, “a bit of butter, garlic and thyme at the end helps,” he says, “because filet wants a touch more added richness than some other steaks.”
Skirt: Score and add citrus
Try scoring skirt steak before slapping it on the grill.
Skirt steak is a long, thin cut from the diaphragm muscle, meant to be cooked whole and sliced thin for fajitas or other preparations that call for thin-sliced steak. For its diva treatment, “I really enjoy scoring skirt steak, and then squeezing lime into the cuts,” says JD Alewine, owner and recipe developer of Them Bites in Asheville, North Carolina.
Scoring meat involves making thin slices that just scratch the surface, but they pay big dividends later on. “Scoring helps break down the long muscle fibers by cutting them into smaller sections when you cut against the grain,” says Alewine. “The lime acts like a marinade, and the acid helps to tenderize the meat. After you get a nice, quick char from high heat, let the steak rest, and hit it with lime again. It turns out perfect every time.”
T-bone: Grill position matters
When cooking a T-bone, place the tenderloin side further from the hottest area of the grill to keep it from overcooking.
Steaks on the bone have certain benefits, such as better moisture retention and richness, but also introduce complications. “When you’re cooking up a T-bone, think of it as cooking two different steaks at once,” says Joanne Gallagher, co-founder and recipe developer at Inspired Taste. “You’ll find the strip side is a lot firmer and fattier, and the tenderloin cooks faster and stays leaner.”
Two steaks in one is always a good time, but requires finesse. “Make sure you’re positioning the steak properly on the grill,” she says. “I’ll place the tenderloin side further from the hottest area of the grill to keep it from overcooking before the strip has a chance to develop a crust. Note that the bone will insulate the meat and slow cooking near the center, so you’ll want to give the steak a couple of extra minutes over indirect heat to help both sides finish evenly.”
Kebabs: Choose your meat and mind your tools
For the best kebabs, use slightly larger chunks of sirloin and marinate them in something sweet and spicy.
Not every steak hits the grill whole, and kebabs are a welcome way to use bits and pieces from the butcher, especially when they’re on sale.
First, choose your fighter. “You want to use a hearty steak like sirloin for kebabs to ensure the meat cooks on par with any raw vegetables you may add, which traditionally can take more time to cook through,” says Jennifer Borchardt, culinary director of Pre Brands. “From a flavor profile, sirloin holds up to all different cuisines, so feel free to try them out with heavy marinades and seasonings.”
Also consider that skewers add a small degree of difficulty. “The trick with skewers is making sure you’re cooking each individual piece of meat evenly,” says Gallagher. “You’ll find the smaller pieces can overcook before the larger ones are done. To avoid this, I’ll use slightly larger chunks and then marinate them with something sweet and spicy. I’ll also leave little gaps in between each piece on the kebab so the heat can circulate around them to keep things cooking evenly.”
“For ideal kebabs, soak your skewers 30 minutes before cooking,” adds Borchardt, “and try them in a grill basket for an even cook.”
New York strip: Go cast iron and sear the fat cap
For strip steaks, consider pulling out the cast-iron skillet.
Sometimes, the best advice for a grilled steak is to bypass the grill and bring out your cast iron for the occasion. That doesn’t mean the grill won’t be involved, though. This just in: You can set your cast-iron skillet right on the grill next to your burgers and dogs for searing-hot heat.
“The New York strip is leaner than a filet and more flavorful than a tenderloin, and it’s my go-to premium steak cut because it has a great texture and flavor,” says Baych. No disrespect to the grill, “but they are best cooked in a cast iron pan. While your pan is heating up, sear just the fat cap,” he says, by holding the fatty edge of the steak directly on the skillet surface using tongs. “The fat renders, and then you’re cooking the steak in its own fat while keeping the cap crispy.”
Tri-tip: Mind the grain and go for a rub
A rub will do wonders for your tri-tip.
Adding to the list of underrated steaks, “I absolutely love tri-tip for grilling because it’s got a deep flavor similar to a roast, but still cooks nicely over live fire,” says Gallagher. “I’ve found that the secret is getting a good grasp on how the grain changes direction partway through the cut. You need to rotate it often, and once it’s off the grill, slice it into sections so each bite is as tender as possible.”
Because it’s got its own bold flavor that can take on other big flavors, “I’ll use a bolder seasoning rub for this cut, like a combination of dried dill, onion and garlic powder, Aleppo pepper, and coriander, among others,” she says. “A chimichurri sauce goes really well with tri-tip, too, because the herby flavor balances out the richness.”
Wagyu: Keep it cold and use the flat top
Wagyu wants a hot, flat surface, like cast iron or a scorching flat-top griddle.
If you’ve sprung for Wagyu, you’re already going to have to break one of the cardinal rules that applies to basically every other kind of steak. “Grilling with Wagyu requires a slightly different approach than standard beef because of its exceptionally high omega-3 and omega-6 fat content and lower melting point,” says Sheila Patinkin of Vermont Wagyu. “Wagyu fat begins to melt at a much lower temperature than leaner beef, so steaks and patties should be kept in the fridge until the moment they hit the heat to preserve their structural integrity.”
Also, because the fat is kind of the point of Wagyu, putting them on a traditional grill is going to be an exercise in major flare-ups, where you effectively lose what you’ve paid for. To prevent this, “cook them on a flat top or cast-iron skillet,” says Patinkin, “rather than directly on grill grates.” Again, sometimes the best grilling advice is simply not to grill.
