
Talia Byre opened Saturday with a breezy moment that embodied a softer take on change.
As a starting point for spring, the designer told WWD after the show that she’d come into the studio announcing an all-white and cream season, a departure from her proclivity for color that grew out of her growing bespoke bridal work — plus a desire for something “fresh” and almost cleansing.
Coupled with this was the work of Dillwyn Smith, who was one of 10 artists Byre called upon for the zine she produced as a continuation of her now-annual show. Two of his “Placebo Paintings” made from superpositions of colorful but translucent fabric served as backdrops for the runway set in London’s Hellenic Centre.
They made a neat parallel with clothes that, as Byre put it, act like a placebo to make women feel more confident. She said her intention was to offer an evolving wardrobe, with loyal customers adding one piece a season rather than buying into a whole new self.
Continuity showed in this lineup. Tailoring and dresses were the bedrock, from sharp jackets and long boot-cut trousers in moiré to fluid, bias-cut halter dresses in sheer paisley held by narrow grosgrain ties. Byre’s bridal codes came softened for everyday life, with stiff cotton brushing against transparency and black leather cutting through the sweetness.
While pale tones dominated, fresh greens or a jolt of magenta came as judicious accents. Shearling vests, already a uniform for the studio team, according to the designer, reappeared in black. It exemplified how Byre and her woman actually get dressed, with favorites on repeat yet feeling fresh.









