For his elegant spring 2027 collection, Takuya Morikawa turned to flowers and Irving Penn photographs – all of which he loves.

The designer was surrounded by flowers during his childhood, due to his mother and grandparents’ gardens. “The way Irving Penn sees things has been a very big inspiration,” Morikawa said, pointing to how Penn lensed Issey Miyake fashion, as an example.

There is a reduction yet richness to Penn’s images. His was a discovery and design process, giving another perspective on and transformation of daily life that Morikawa has been fascinated by since his 20s. He hoped to channel that into this season’s fashion lineup, which was pared down to essentials.

And that he did, with aplomb. Flower prints sprung up in various guises, on jackets, shirts and bottoms, as did tendril-like cut-outs framed by embroidered structures that adorned garments.

Morikawa’s fashion color palette — including yellow, brown, beige and gray — also nodded to Penn’s hues of choice, with none being too bright.

A mint green-and-crimson knitted sweater set topped crimson shorts. There was a pale lavender suit ensemble with swirling cut-outs overlaying a deep peach collared shirt. A banana-yellow leather jacket featured wide collars.

This fluid collection gave a joyful, light feeling.