Ssstein founder and creative director Kiichiro Asakawa, in his second time on the official calendar, continued to offer up a strong argument for understated dressing with a calming wardrobe rooted in well-executed classics.

Inspired by meditative early-morning moments, before the craziness of the day kicks in, he navigated a gentle color palette of earthy shades, punctuating it with touches of red and watercolor tones. To wit, the pale yellow of a soft wool belted cardigan coat resembled a sunlight awakening diffused through lightweight curtains, and was one of the dominant shades in a collection of fluid tailored silhouettes, cocoon-like cuts and a meticulous approach to textile choice.

The styling enhanced the early-morning feel, as if the models had gotten dressed while half awake, with one shirt lapel or tail tucked in, the other out, jacket collars turned up as if to protect the body, and wrap skirts loosely buttoned as if in a moment of inattention. But there was nothing disheveled about the aesthetics here, such details rather highlighting the gentility of the designs.

There were multiple layers of shirt collars, lightweight sweaters and supple jackets, worn with loose tailored pants, Bermudas or jeans made from a cotton and hemp blend with ring-dyed yarns creating the effect of dappled light. The accessory of the season was a hand-stitched tie, with tone-on-tone versions to perfectly match the shirt they were worn with. Suede jackets were ultra-lightweight and perfectly proportioned, and outsized corduroy and velvet suiting nodded to vintage comfort while looking fresh as a dewy dawn.