At Milan Men’s Fashion Week, footwear brands looked into their archives, reinterpreting their heritage models with modern updates through refined embellishments and new nuances.

For spring 2027, Santoni unveiled the “Art of Encounter” collection. The footwear lineup featured the Oscar double-buckle loafer in Origine leather with its Reverse Goodyear construction, alongside the brand’s signature Carlo loafer. It is now customizable with interchangeable tassels through the new “One Live” personalization service. This is part of the “One of One” tiered program offering clients the chance to create their own shoes from start to finish.

Another highlight was the Ira double-buckle shoe in supple Seta suede with an Origine full-grain calfskin toe, finished using Santoni’s signature Velatura hand-coloring technique. The same materials were featured in the Arlo bag. The bag collection included the Eco, a reversible shopping bag crafted in Granato, the brand’s dome-grain calfskin and silky Seta suede and the Didi work bag in Origine leather. On the sneakers front, the range spanned from the Off-Duty model made from Lieve vegetable-tanned leather to the Weekender presented in a lightweight design. 

Italian footwear and leather goods brand Testoni drew inspiration from its archive for the “Nostalgic Italian summers” collection. Washed leathers and faded textures evoked a vintage feel through the worn-in calf and soft nubuck materials. The color palette spanned from shades of blue, light gray and warm brown, to the new watercress green. The collection is built around three main lines: Archivio, Casa Amedeo and Bottega 29. 

Archivio revisits the brand’s heritage codes and introduces the “Fold away” line in suede, deer leather and lightweight canvas. Casa Amedeo brought to the collection a relaxed tailoring style, with the “Flow” loafer featuring a new softer and comfortable sole and the “Amedeo essential” line, which included loafers finished with a penny slot or a subtle “T” shape metal detail. Bottega 29 included classic loafers like the Driver shoes, elevated with refined sartorial leather details, center-stitched laces and contrasting leather charms.

Fratelli Rossetti decided to give a new twist to its heritage by reinterpreting the Brera loafer. 

The brand introduced a new rubber outsole enhanced with a braided decorative element but the highlight of the new collection was the batik finish, an artisanal dyeing on the leather, which gives the shoe shades color transitions that appear almost naturally shaped by time. The new Brera is available in four color variations: ink blue, almond, rice and burnt leather.