Skip the Dermaroller—2 Effective Alternatives for Great Skin

Dermatologists agree that micro-needling is incredibly effective. For the uninitiated, micro-needling treatments involve using tiny needles to superficially puncture the skin and create “micro-injuries,” which trigger the natural wound-healing response and dramatically boost collagen and elastin production. Translation? It can give you smoother, plumper, and more youthful-looking skin. It can even drastically minimize the appearance of acne scars.

Here’s the thing, though. Not all microneedling treatments are the same. Dermatologists back professional microneedling treatments, undergone in an office setting under the guidance of an expert. They often caution against at-home microneedling treatments, AKA derma-rollers, because they can do more harm than good (more on that in a minute).

However, that doesn’t mean there aren’t other options if you can’t shell out hundreds or thousands of dollars for professional micro-needling. Experts recommend two other microneedling substitutes. The first is a gold-standard collagen-boosting ingredient: retinol. The second is a safe, hygienic, and dermatologist-developed “Micro-Infusion” system. The second is spicule skincare—a K-beauty phenomenon that’s only recently caught on in the U.S. Ahead, learn about each one and find out which is right for you.

The Dangers of Derma-Rollers

Azadeh Shirazi is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of AziMD Skincare. She says that while derma-rollers are marketed as a DIY microneedling treatment, they come with “real risk” when used incorrectly. “The main things I worry most about as a dermatologist are infection, irritation, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and potential scarring, especially in patients with sensitive skin or deeper skin tones,” she says. “Many people also don’t realize that the lack of sterilization or overly aggressive use can damage the skin barrier and worsen conditions like acne or rosacea. In my opinion, microneedling is a procedure that benefits from professional oversight and proper technique.”

For context, derma-rollers have a rolling head covered in micro-needles. Derms say this design is the entire problem. “This device, although effective at inducing holes, also drags on the skin,” Luke Maxfield, DO, FAAD, and board-certified dermatologist, previously told Who What Wear. “It tears the skin surface as it moves along, which can result in unnecessary trauma, hyperpigmentation, or even scarring. Additionally, as this device does not have single-use tips, the risk of infection and onus of sterility is on the user. Also, the length of needles on the derma-rollers ranges from small to unnecessarily large, and any supporting ingredients or products used alongside derma-rollers may or may not be formulated well to go deeper into the skin through the channels that needling creates. All of this makes safety a primary concern.” Professional micro-needling, on the other hand, works via a stamping motion, which is considered far safer.

Alternative #1: Retinoids

Yes, retinoids are an effective alternative for DIY microneedling treatments. They support collagen production and resurface the skin for a plumper, smoother, and more even look. The benefits compound over time, leading to more youthful-looking skin the longer you use them.

“For most patients, I recommend focusing on proven skincare ingredients that support collagen production without physically injuring the skin,” Shirazi says. “Retinoids are my go-to because they can improve texture, fine lines, and overall skin quality over time. Peptides, growth factors, antioxidants, and gentle chemical exfoliants can also be helpful additions. Consistency with a well-formulated skincare routine is often safer and can be much more effective than at-home microneedling devices.”