Ready to Wear Runway, Fashion Show & Collection Review


After a debut Jil Sander show dedicated to purism, Simone Bellotti invited some grit, grime and excessive fabric into the brand’s pristine universe – and it looked great.

Backstage before the show, he cracked open the 1978 book “Café Lehmitz” by Swedish photographer Anders Petersen, who documented the rough-and-tumble revelers that frequented that Hamburg bar in the ‘60s.

Could hometown fashion hero Mrs. Jil Sander ever been among them? “I would love to know,” Bellotti said with a grin. “What I like [about Petersen’s photos] is this a bit of roughness and this bit of imperfection.”

The designer laid out a vast, rust brown carpet for the show, cruelly lit with banks of fluorescent tubes, which evoked a ‘70s rec room, or a dive bar, setting the stage for his own character study.

Here was a homelier brand of minimalism, selectively imperfect, sometimes awkward and occasionally irrational, but that’s what excited the eye and got the fashion juices flowing.

Bellotti took a freewheeling, experimental approach to tailoring, and it intrigued. Suit jackets were sometimes overly long, sometimes shrunken in the back, jutting out strangely, or given narrow, hunched shoulders.

A paucity of fabric gave some of the men’s coats a sunken-chest aspect, or the midriff a wrinkled one, while other woolen outerwear was voluptuously cut, with face-framing collars or a generous seam allowance in the back – as dramatic as a train.

If you’re in the market for a sleek black leather coat or blazer, Jil Sander is still a go-to house, but you might pair the latter with a skirt in worn-looking brown suede. Likewise, scuffed boots blunted the severity of boot-cut trousers in gray wool.

Bellotti’s late father was an upholsterer, and he paid tribute to him and the show’s “house” theme with sturdy-looking tweeds that might be found on a sofa, and a padded, jacquard minidress with a passing resemblance to the mattresses his father used to refurbish.

Not that everything had a retro, lived-in look.

Legendary retailer Janet Brown, a lifelong devotee of Jil Sander, once explained the brand essence in roughly these terms: Just when you think you couldn’t possibly add another navy coat to your wardrobe, Sander would design one you couldn’t live without.

There were a few of these stunners in the show, sparked with fluffy, slightly ragged millefeuille cuffs or collars: Perfect meets imperfect.



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