PARIS — Perhaps Prada called it back in Milan — but this season was all about the skirt in Paris too.

It emerged as this season’s winning piece, with buyers ready to put big bucks behind all versions of the classic piece, from fluid and asymmetric styles to statement versions in novelty fabrics, embroidery and prints. Dresses remain important, but skirts increasingly look like the season’s key vehicle for the return of femininity.

“Fashion is fun again,” said Moda Operandi president April Hennig, calling it a season of “eclectic maximalism.”

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer at Mytheresa, saw the season mark a “return of emotion and personality,” with customers moving away from quiet luxury to more expressive, personal looks.

That doesn’t mean the end of wearability, but an evolution from ladylike dressing toward looks that have a strong sense of desire with a softer and more sensual femininity. See: bustiers, bra tops, bandeaux, lingerie, transparency, lace and fluid fabrics scattered throughout collections. The waist is back, too, emphasized by belts, ties, peplums and corsetry.

“Paris was very much about being dressed and slightly undressed at the same time,” said Galeries Lafayette womenswear and accessories buying director Victoria Dartigues.

Buyers were drawn to bold colors, especially red, turquoise, blue and yellow, as well as a dash of texture in fringe, tassels and embellishment.

Even against the turbulent macroeconomic backdrop, the good news is that budgets are generally up — but selectively, they indicated. Buyers are concentrating spend on collections with a clear brand identity, strong sell-through and standout product, rather than increasing investment across the board.

Investments are shifting toward skirts, feminine ready-to-wear, occasionwear and accessories, particularly jewelry, belts, scarves and other smaller pieces that add personality without requiring a full closet reset.

It reflects how retailers see customers spending even as they tighten their pocketbooks. Rather than buying into yet another “aesthetic,” buyers are looking for what Dartigues called the “collector’s wardrobe” of individual pieces that can be mixed and personalized.

The shift is from “this is the look” to “this is my look,” she said.

Saint Laurent dominated the big house conversation — maybe it was the rumor of Anthony Vaccarello’s impending departure, or simply buzz around Corrado De Biase’s slinky snake shoes — but buyers raved.

Elsewhere, the season’s strongest emerging signal was August Barron, which appeared repeatedly on buyers’ radars and was singled out by several as a standout show. Its mix of glamour, femininity, pop culture and theatricality fit neatly into the season’s vibe.

Hsu summed up this season’s mood. “The customer is ready to embrace fashion again,” she said.

Here is a selection of buyers’ analysis of the Paris season, which have been edited for length and clarity.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office & store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collections: Chanel, Schiaparelli, Dior, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten

Trend that will matter in six months? Color, whether bold, blocked in unexpected mixes or in pops, will gain momentum across categories. Artisanal details and elevated materials will distinguish luxury offerings.

What show best met the moment? Chanel. The highest expression of luxury meets desirability. The Saint Laurent show was the ultimate in Parisian glamour and mystery, while Matières Fécales managed to be poetic, personal, political and incredible design.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Higher stakes felt palpable. Designers answered with extraordinary efforts, both editorially and commercially, as well as with season-right clothing. Fashion offered itself as an uplifting and gentler oasis amidst an uncertain global backdrop.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Unforgettable.

Laura Darmon, head of buying and business development, ENG

Favorite collections: Tom Ford, Matières Fécales, Mugler, Kiko Kostadinov, Saint Laurent

Trend that will matter in six months? Transparency, sheer skirts and layering. Tartan appeared across skirts, scarves and jackets, while blue and yellow came through strongly.

Budgets up, down or flat? Up!

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? I’m being more cautious with heavier pieces, especially as some delivery windows run until April and the weather in China can be tricky by then.

Categories with a deeper buy? Strong ready-to-wear pieces and bags.

Emerging brands on your radar? Oscar Ouyang. I’ve followed him since he started and was initially drawn to his knitwear. This season, I finally committed after his London show. The collection has expanded into a broader range of garments and felt much more complete and mature.

What show best met the moment? Matières Fécales and August Barron, 100 percent. Matières Fécales delivered something powerful and deeply personal. August Barron was, by far, their best show ever: cinematic and complete.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Design has become more frontal, with a deeper sense of storytelling and a stronger need for brands to establish and communicate recognizable DNA.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Exciting.

Angélique Liautaud, womenswear merchandising and buying director, Printemps

Favorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Celine, The Row

Trend that will matter in six months? Vintage has moved from reference to conversation, becoming integral to the modern wardrobe. At The Row, Line Vautrin necklaces captured this perfectly: rare, collectible pieces bringing history and singularity to a contemporary silhouette.

Budgets up, down or flat? Steady, but we are taking a more considered approach, investing in pieces with a strong point of view that can live in a wardrobe beyond one season.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? More color, sensuality and personality, always grounded in wearability.

Emerging brands on your radar? Julie Kegels. Her ability to turn a strong concept into clothes that feel radical and precise gives her a distinctive visual language and enormous potential.

What show best met the moment? Chanel felt as alive as ever. Matthieu Blazy turned masculine tailoring, fluid dresses, lingerie and the liberated body into a new vocabulary of elegance about movement, attitude and freedom.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? There was a clear move away from restraint. Fashion felt more sensual, expressive and colorful, with renewed freedom. The body was back in focus through transparency and exposed lingerie, while fluidity and play injected bold energy.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Individuality.

Elodie Abrial, sales director, Groupe Bon Marché

Favorite collections: Dior, Dries Van Noten, Celine, Alaïa, Sacai

Trend that will matter in six months? Femininity is returning in a lighter way, with lingerie, transparency, very light silk and waist-defining belts, even in tailoring. Oversized dressing feels far behind.

Categories with a deeper buy? Definitely skirts: midi, asymmetric and short, but always with fluidity and movement.

Emerging brands on your radar? Alexandra Golovanoff, which appeared on the official calendar for the first time. It offers a desirable Parisian wardrobe, including exceptional cashmere, that works from day to night.

What show best met the moment? Dior. The collection was sublime, modern and feminine, with lighter silhouettes presented in a dreamy garden setting.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Quiet luxury evolved into something more vibrant and joyful, with beautiful colors and embellishment enriching otherwise plain pieces.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Joyful elegance.

Xochitl West, buying director, H. Lorenzo

Favorite collections: Matières Fécales, Tom Ford, Mugler, August Barron, Acne Studios

Trend that will matter in six months? New retro: an ’80s hybrid with shoulder pads.

Trend that won’t? Quiet luxury.

Budgets up, down or flat? Up.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? Spending on the top brands mentioned and cutting down on brands that don’t evolve.

Categories with a deeper buy? Ready-to-wear, as always.

Emerging brands on your radar? Those I find mostly in London.

What show best met the moment? Matières Fécales.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Yes, more positive and liberating.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Transgressive.

Simon Longland, director of buying — fashion, Harrods

Favorite collections: Chanel, Schiaparelli, Tom Ford, Givenchy, Saint Laurent

Trend that will matter in six months? Optimism: color, embellishment, fabrication and print, alongside a new lightness designed for summer. Skirts and shirts will also be key, offering versatility and multiple ways to build a wardrobe.

Trend that won’t? Bra tops feel more like a runway styling device with limited appeal beyond the shows. Fringing and ruffles may have a more limited reach.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? We will back the most special pieces from the runway. Color and embellishment resonate strongly with our clients, and we will invest significantly in the return of the skirt.

Categories with a deeper buy? Skirts across every silhouette, from mini to maxi, pencil to pleated. Leather and suede also remain important, particularly across jackets, dresses, skirts and shirts.

Emerging brands on your radar? We have added a number of exciting new brands for SS27 and look forward to sharing more details in due course.

What show best met the moment? Saint Laurent was a true fashion moment: a show and collection that aligned perfectly to create something that will live long in the memory.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Absolutely. Clothes were genuinely designed for summer, with a lightness and ease we haven’t seen for some time, alongside a full return to color, embellishment and print. Quiet luxury isn’t dead, but it is far less dominant.

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: Dior, Chanel, Dries Van Noten, Celine, The Row

Trend that will matter in six months? Bold wardrobe expression and saturated color. From Tom Ford’s bright blue to Loewe’s yellow and Celine’s red, color will be key. There was also a more lived-in approach to opulence, with embroidery, lace and embellishment styled unexpectedly.

Trend that won’t? A perfectly polished version of quiet luxury. This season felt more personal and expressive, with less emphasis on getting the look “right.”

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? We’re increasing investment in novelty fashion and emotional pieces that give clients a reason to buy now but have longevity beyond the season. A statement shoe, colored bag or unexpected accessory can transform an outfit.

What show best met the moment? Matières Fécales. Its Place de la République show was a powerful reminder of fashion’s ability to create community and expand representation.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? One year on from the major designer shifts, the fashion pendulum appears to be stabilizing. Designers are moving toward a pragmatic design language, but styling is making familiar clothes feel fresh and desirable.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Personalized.

Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners, Jimmy’s New York and the Hamptons

Favorite collections: Chanel, Schiaparelli, Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Givenchy

Trend that will matter in six months? Romanticism with an edge. Femininity is returning with more attitude, beautiful fabrics, dramatic silhouettes, color and couture-level techniques translated into ready-to-wear. Red feels particularly important.

Trend that won’t? Fashion for fashion’s sake: contrived trends without a real woman or emotion behind them.

Budgets up, down or flat? Up selectively.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? Party, occasion and travel dressing. We are more cautious about anything ubiquitous or overly represented in the market.

Categories with a deeper buy? Evening and special occasion. There was an incredible return to glamour in Paris, with gowns, feathers, embellishment, beautiful color and silhouettes with presence.

What show best met the moment? Givenchy and Ann Demeulemeester. Both had a strong point of view while remaining emotional and desirable.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Designers seemed to loosen up, with more experimentation in silhouette, volume and movement, alongside a return to couture techniques and craftsmanship.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Sculptural.

Kate Benson, chief merchant, Harvey Nichols

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Celine, Chloé, Issey Miyake.

What trend will matter in six months? Pastel colors will be everywhere — lilac and lemon, with a strong purple accent. Duchesse satin and high-shine fabrics.

What won’t stick? The diaphanous, super-light voluminous dresses that were the highlight of so many shows, might be a little harder to translate on the streets of London. But they are so romantic that we’ll have to do them anyway.

Any categories where you will place a deeper buy this season? Skirts are key to the season, having dominated the runways, so will be an essential piece for us. Bra tops we won’t go crazy over, but we will certainly represent the look as it was an important trend.

What show best met the moment? Dries Van Noten. The show concept and audio worked seamlessly to create a vision of fashion in a modern woman’s world. Expressive, but very wearable, stretching boundaries on styling, yet still feeling that the collection was for real women.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Summer meant summer this season. The impression was of lighter, looser, more expressive dressing. From transparent silk mousseline at Dior to Chanel’s tweed turned transparent and playful. Rick Owens and Issey Miyake had their own interpretations with billowing dresses and statement coats creating impact and drama.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Lightness.

Beth Buccini, owner and founder, Kirna Zabête

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Chanel, Miu Miu, Loewe, Chloé

Trend that will matter in six months? Skirts and skirt suits were everywhere, alongside a strong emphasis on the waist through peplum tops, belts and ties.

Trend that won’t? Micro shorts. They look cute on the runway but rarely translate to reality.

Budgets up, down or flat? Up. We spent less in precollection and more here, where we can add special pieces with personality.

Categories with a deeper buy? Dresses remain our bestselling category.

What show best met the moment? Saint Laurent. It was a confident, masterful and visionary collection, and an extraordinary fashion moment under the Eiffel Tower. I certainly hope the Golden Age of Anthony Vaccarello is not over.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? It was a season of drama and personality. We saw color, fringe, tassels and incredible craftsmanship. It feels like the era of quiet luxury is over. The joie de vivre is back in Paris!

If you could sum up the season in one word: Emotional.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer, Mytheresa

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Valentino, The Row, Celine, Dries Van Noten

Trend that will matter in six months? Romantic femininity, including bustiers, skirts, bra tops, vintage-inspired florals, ditsy prints and a softer pastel palette.

Trend that won’t? The après-sport moment is moving on as customers look for pieces that feel more emotional, expressive and individual.

Categories with a deeper buy? Feminine ready-to-wear, particularly bustiers, skirts, romantic tops, dresses and floral stories, as well as statement evening and occasion pieces.

Emerging brands on your radar? August Barron and Steve O Smith. August Barron has created a distinctive universe around glamour, femininity and pop culture, while Steve O Smith deserves greater visibility as a young British talent.

What show best met the moment? Saint Laurent was spectacular and emotional, with an extraordinary sense of occasion and legacy. It was a powerful reminder that when fashion creates emotion as well as desire, the impact goes far beyond the clothes themselves.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? The biggest shift is the return of emotion and personality. There is less interest in one prescribed aesthetic and more room for glamour, color, sensuality and fantasy.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Emotion.

April Hennig, president, Moda Operandi

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, The Row, Dries Van Noten, Celine, Valentino

Trend that will matter in six months? Eclectic maximalism: unexpected color combinations at Valentino and Givenchy, metallics at Saint Laurent and bold mixed prints at Dries Van Noten and Miu Miu.

Trend that won’t? Strong shoulders reminiscent of the ’80s. The customer is looking for novelty that is still easy to wear and not overly fussy.

Budgets up, down or flat? Up in standout collections.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? We are focusing on high-low combinations of separates and lighter-weight fabrics, including cotton voile, broderie anglaise and lace.

Categories with a deeper buy? Skirts, especially novelty fabrications, embroideries and prints. In accessories, belts, long necklaces and tassel fringe.

Emerging brands on your radar? Matières Fécales.

What show best met the moment? Saint Laurent, with grand chandeliers and the glittering Eiffel Tower, was a memorable celebration of Anthony Vaccarello’s decade at the house.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Brands are rethinking their approach to generating desire.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Exuberant.

Chloe King, fashion director, women’s, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Chanel, Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Celine

Trend that will matter in six months? Personalization and light eclecticism: combining ideas, techniques and references rather than prescribing a single look. Chanel, The Row and Celine were especially successful.

Emerging brands on your radar? August Barron, Ester Manas, Julie Kegels.

What show best met the moment? Chanel continues to transfix industry insiders and clients, while Saint Laurent and Schiaparelli offered glittering salon-style elegance.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? The most successful shows grounded Parisian fantasy in reality. Dries Van Noten and Loewe suggested that glamour can be a resource for experimentation and optimism. Matières Fécales, August Barron and Rick Owens were among the most transportive shows.

Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer, Net-a-porter

Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Valentino, The Row, Saint Laurent, Rick Owens

Trend that will matter in six months? The statement skirt, embellishments on fluid fabrics, bright colors, turquoise, unexpected color and print combinations, and sea-inspired accessories such as shells, pearls and colored beaded necklaces.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? We are continuing to push tops, focusing on versatile yet special options that are resonating with clients.

Categories with a deeper buy? Dresses remain a major focus, but we are investing more heavily in skirts.

Emerging brands on your radar? Yoshita 1967 and Conner Ives for FW26, with more new talent to follow for SS27.

What show best met the moment? Dries Van Noten.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? There was great energy throughout the season. I loved the mix of prints, bright colors and eclecticism.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Vibrant.

Brooke Bobb, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Celine, Loewe, Chanel, The Row

Trend that will matter in six months? A return to expression will, hopefully, stick.

Trend that won’t? Bra tops may not.

Emerging brands on your radar? August Barron and Kiko Kostadinov.

What show best met the moment? Celine nailed the idea of desirability right now.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Things feel more expressive and personal now than they have in recent seasons. Fashion feels less formulaic or contrived — it has a bit more magic as we finally, officially come out of the quiet luxury era.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Sublime.

David Thielebeule, fashion director, Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Celine

Trend that will matter in six months? Desire has returned. At Dries Van Noten, a simple skirt or jacquard jacket became truly compelling with a scatter of brooches, a rainbow of necklaces and Julian’s [Klausner] very special sense of color. Loewe, Miu Miu and Celine shared the instinct of recognizable clothes, but with wit and eccentricity. After seasons of restraint, fashion feels ready to celebrate again.

Trend that won’t? Novelty without purpose.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? Paris offered so much that retailers simply wanted to buy: easy trenches, skirts and polos at Dries Van Noten and summer suiting at Dior.

What show best met the moment? Chanel. Matthieu Blazy has created genuine excitement among both the industry and clients, with practically every look offering something covetable. There was something wonderfully generous about the whole thing, a reminder that fashion can still create joy.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? There was a realness to Paris this season. One editor in chief described it to me, with a hint of skepticism, as the “merch” season but for retailers it is energizing. Paris will always give us fantasy, but there was so much you simply wanted to buy. These weren’t basic clothes, they were very specific fashion propositions you could actually imagine people living in.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Tangible.

Isla Lynch, buying director, Ssense

Favorite collections: August Barron, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten, Valentino, Maison Margiela

Trend that will matter in six months? Skirts in every shape, fabric and weight.

Trend that won’t? The period of the biker jacket, ballerina flat and low-fi runner is definitely over.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? Increasing spend in jewelry brands, while being cautious with anything that trends overnight on TikTok.

Categories with a deeper buy? Heels, jewelry, summer dresses and tweed jackets. In jewelry, we’re seeing increased investment potential from top clients.

Emerging brands on your radar? Emily Dawn Long, Alice Waese and Claire Sullivan.

What show best met the moment? Junya Watanabe. Joyous and fun.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Everything is starting to feel more femme, from the color palettes to the jacquards. There is a certain richness to the lady this season. Grunge is not the moment.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Fabulous.

Victoria Dartigues, womenswear and accessories buying director, Galeries Lafayette

Favorite collections: Celine, Chanel, Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier

Trend that will matter in six months? Individuality and the “collector’s wardrobe”: moving away from the total look toward separates that women can mix personally. Product matters again, but styling is just as important.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? Accessories, especially scarves, bandanas, belts, jewelry and other small styling pieces that can transform a silhouette.

Categories with a deeper buy? Separates, particularly skirts, fluid trousers, lightweight shirts, sheer layers, bras and bandeaux. Bold red and softer pastels were strong color directions. There is also a real opportunity in accessories that bring fashion and newness without requiring the customer to change her entire wardrobe.

Emerging brands on your radar? Jean Paul Gaultier under Duran Lantink. The house codes remain recognizable, but Duran is giving them an incredible sense of newness.

What show best met the moment? Celine. It felt urban, sophisticated and desirable without being overdone — a real wardrobe rather than a fashion statement.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Fashion feels creative again without losing wearability. Designers are taking more risks with color, proportion, sensuality and styling while keeping the clothes grounded in real wardrobes.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Individuality — be yourself and have fun.

Jessica Crawley, fashion buying director, Ounass (Al Tayer)

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Zimmermann, Chloé, Balenciaga, Victoria Beckham

Trend that will matter in six months? Femininity: lace, transparency, softer and more fluid silhouettes, and skirts. Color also feels important again.

Trend that won’t? The more conceptual versions of these trends may be harder commercially. Customers still want fashion, but they also want pieces they can really wear.

Budgets up, down or flat? Up, but selectively.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? Increasing, but selectively.

Categories with a deeper buy? Ready-to-wear, specifically skirts.

Emerging brands on your radar? We picked up Salma Osman in Paris and are excited to launch it; Arakii has a directional collection.

What show best met the moment? Saint Laurent. The setting, energy and overall experience felt like a true fashion moment.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Designers really went for it. Collections remained grounded and wearable, but there was more color, texture and personality. It felt fun, inspiring and optimistic.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Energized.

Bosse Myhr, director of buying, Selfridges

Favorite collections: Chanel, Dior, Comme des Garçons, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens

Trend that will matter in six months? Peplums, shorts, transparency, sheerness and layering.

Budgets up, down or flat? The Paris shows were strong again, and we were happy with the development across the board.

Categories with a deeper buy? Separates in all variations, particularly shorts and tops. We have also seen increased demand for long dresses.

Emerging brands on your radar? Julie Kegels stood out this season.

What show best met the moment? Chanel. Give us more!

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? Not really. We are continuing to evolve the collections we’re buying for the season.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Evolved.

Reda Keddaji, general manager, Tryano (Chalhoub Group)

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Chanel, Dries Van Noten, Tom Ford, Chloé

Trend that will matter in six months? Effortless, refined femininity, stronger silhouettes, quality fabrics and pieces that move from day to evening.

Trend that won’t? Overly complicated styling and trends designed primarily for social media rather than real wardrobes.

Budgets up, down or flat? Selective growth.

Where are you increasing spend, or pulling back? Increasing spend on brands with strong identity, proven sell-through and a clear point of view; more cautious on brands that rely heavily on hype.

Categories with a deeper buy? Footwear, especially lighter sandals and flats. Handbags remain selective, with a focus on small, well-crafted shapes.

Emerging brands on your radar? Hodakova, Marie Adam-Leenaerdt and Matières Fécales.

What show best met the moment? Saint Laurent.

Did you feel any “vibe shift” this season? A clear move away from novelty toward desirability, wearability and emotion. Customers want a strong point of view but also want to understand how the product fits into their lives.

If you could sum up the season in one word: Relevant.

— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.