Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas that are reshaping the materials sector. It covers the latest developments in how fashion is designed, engineered, and scaled—from emerging biomaterials and next-generation leathers to engineered fibers and sustainable alternatives.

Toray raises recycled content in polyester-nylon yarn

Toray Industries is preparing a polyester-nylon yarn made with at least 93 percent recycled material by weight. Fabrics incorporating the yarn are slated for Fall/Winter 2027.

Both polymer components incorporate recycled raw materials. Toray said its polymer-design and composite-spinning technologies helped it increase recycled content while maintaining consistent yarn quality, a challenge when combining different polymers.

The 93 percent figure applies to the raw yarn. Recycled content in the finished fabric or garment will depend on the other materials used.

Toray is incorporating the fiber into Artirosa CX, a textile range intended for outerwear, urban outdoor clothing and premium casualwear. The fabrics have a dense, finely textured surface and crisp hand, with construction and finishing options that can provide waterproofing, water repellency and wind resistance.

According to Toray, the water-repellent agents do not intentionally contain PFAS. Performance will vary with the material, fabric design and processing.

The company will assess the technology’s suitability for mass production while continuing development to increase recycled content. It is targeting first-year Artirosa CX sales of 200,000 meters.

Ponda brings wetland insulation to company merch

Ponda is taking its bulrush-based insulation into corporate clothing with Wear the Wetland, a collection of customizable vests available for organizations to commission directly.

The Bristol, England-based biomaterials company is accepting reservations for three styles—the Otter, Heron and Mallard—with delivery scheduled for fall 2027. Each uses BioPuff, insulation made from the fluffy seedhead fibers of bulrushes grown on restored British and European wetlands.

Also known as cattails or typha, the plants can be cultivated through paludiculture, the farming of wetland crops on rewetted land. Ponda aims to create demand for those crops by selling branded clothing to companies, universities and other organizations.

“Every order creates demand for bulrushes grown on rewetted land, helping farmers build a reliable income through paludiculture,” said Julian Ellis-Brown, Ponda’s co-founder and CEO.

Organizations reserve their allocation before production, with garments made in a single batch coordinated with the bulrush harvest. Ponda said committed orders help it plan production and limit speculative inventory.

The company has previously worked with Berghaus, Stella McCartney, Ahluwalia and Sheep Inc. Its collaboration with Imperial College London includes a Mallard vest and Fern cap for the university’s branded clothing range.

Hyosung connects sugarcane feedstock to spandex

Hyosung TNC is building out its biobased materials business around an integrated Vietnamese production network that connects sugarcane-derived chemical inputs with finished spandex.

In an Oct. 19 update, the company outlined the route from bio-based 1,4-butanediol, or bio-BDO, to PTMG, an intermediate used to manufacture its Regen Bio spandex. The bio-BDO plant has an initial annual capacity of 50,000 metric tons.

The plant was already operating commercially before the October announcement. Hyosung plans to increase its annual capacity in stages from 50,000 to 200,000 metric tons as demand grows. The planned investment across the project totals $1 billion.

The facility produces bio-BDO by fermenting sugarcane-derived sugars. Chemically identical to conventional BDO, the material replaces fossil-based feedstock in that stage of production. It is then supplied to Hyosung’s Dong Nai operations for conversion into PTMG and spandex.

“We have established an integrated production system that connects bio-based raw materials with finished spandex fiber,” said Hyosung Chairman Cho Hyun-Joon.

Hyosung said the resulting spandex offers stretch and recovery equivalent to conventional versions for applications including sportswear, intimates, swimwear and denim. Sugarcane sourcing and traceability are verified through the VIVE Sustainable Program, while SGS certifies bio-based content under its Environmentally Evaluated Product Scheme, according to the company.

Beyond textiles, Hyosung plans to supply bio-based intermediates for thermoplastic polyurethane and PBAT, a resin used in biodegradable plastics.

Weavabel brings care-label production in-house

Weavabel’s care-label business is growing faster than any other department, prompting the trims and packaging supplier to add staff and begin producing labels itself in Portugal.

Weavabel made four times as many care labels in the second quarter as it did a year earlier: 3.6 million, compared with about 900,000. Eight employees now work in the department, up from four in 2025.

Recent hires include Leyla Liu, variable data account manager in China, and João Melo and Jorge Miguel, who handle production in Portugal. The Portuguese operation marks Weavabel’s first in-house label manufacturing.

Weavabel attributes the growth to brands seeking greater control over label artwork, translations and ordering across their supplier networks. Rather than allowing individual factories to source labels independently, more brands are directing orders through a central provider, the company said.

“The biggest misconception about care labels is that they’re simple,” said Travis Stutterheim, variable data manager at Weavabel. “Behind every one is artwork, translations, approval and production that has to be right the first time.”

The company has introduced an online artwork and ordering portal, increased European production capacity by 50 percent and expanded its production-partner network in Bangladesh, Vietnam and Turkey. It has also integrated with digital product passport providers Bombiix and Osapiens.

Those investments come as brands prepare for EU textile requirements under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation. The European Commission currently plans to adopt the textile-specific delegated act in late 2027; that adoption date is distinct from the date companies will have to comply.

Over the next two years, Weavabel aims to double the number of brands using its care-label services.

Karl Mayer previews new knitting machinery in China

Karl Mayer will demonstrate new machinery for apparel, footwear and technical textiles at its Changzhou, China, facility during ITMA Asia 2026.

The product show runs Nov. 19-21 and Nov. 23, alongside the company’s exhibition in Shanghai. Footwear developments include the RDJ 7/3 double-raschel machine, whose three jacquard bars allow manufacturers to create larger openings, differentiated functional zones and multicolor designs. An RDJ 6/2 model in a finer E 32 gauge is designed to produce spacer fabrics with finer structures and smoother surfaces.

For apparel, the company will show warp-knitting equipment for lingerie, sportswear and athleisure, plus an updated TM WEFT machine with a finer gauge, electronic pattern drive and revised yarn-tension controls.

Visitors can also view textile developments at the site’s approximately 480-square-meter Textile Innovation Center, including woven-like knits, shoe uppers and fabrics made with natural fibers.

Eastman Naia highlights commercial applications

Eastman Naia used the Textile Exchange Conference in Vancouver to showcase garments made with its cellulose acetate fibers and highlight its fifth consecutive Dark Green Shirt designation in Canopy’s Hot Button Progress Report.

The display included applications across eveningwear, casualwear, athleisure and denim. Eastman also highlighted Naia Renew, which carries 40 percent GRS-certified recycled content through a mass-balance process using the company’s molecular recycling technology.

Recycled and virgin feedstocks are mixed during production. The 40 percent figure is calculated through mass-balance accounting; individual garments may contain different amounts.

“Five consecutive years of Dark Green Shirt recognition reflect our strong commitment to responsible sourcing and forest conservation,” said Jason Keller, sustainability leader for Eastman’s fibers business.

Södra adds U.S. sales office

Swedish forest-owner association Södra is establishing a commercial office near Boston to support U.S. sales of pulp and sawn timber. The expansion also includes a logistics partnership intended to improve market access and customer service. Martin Chovan, sales director at Södra Cell, will oversee the office.

“By increasing our local presence, we can collaborate more closely, gain deeper insights into customer needs and develop our offer in ways that create value for both our pulp and sawn timber customers,” Chovan said.

Henrik Wettergren, VP Södra International, described the expansion as a “proactive commercial investment in a market where our products, quality and sustainability profile are well aligned with customer expectations.”

“We already have a strong foundation in North America, and this investment gives us even better opportunities to grow together with both existing and new customers,” he added.