The 1920s remain one of the most easy-to-like decades in fashion, and interest in the period remains through the roof, if the throngs at the blockbuster Art Deco exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris are any indication.

Peter Copping did a brilliant job etching the undeniable chic of that era, layering on a mysterious, femme-fatale energy via fierce riding boots, meaty stoles, and dramatic, face-obscuring hats that were giving Darth Vader vibes, though they were actually inspired by an Irving Penn photo of a coal delivery man.

“And there’s a hat that I’ve always liked in ‘My Fair Lady,’” he mentioned, referring to the one worn by Eliza Doolittle’s dustman father.

There’s a wealth of tailored coats on offer for fall 2026, though Copping’s stood out with the dressmaker details like godets at the hem that gave some swing and swagger. Most of the skirts and dresses were cut on a slant, leaving a dangling scarf-point Copping emphasized with contrasting fabrics and delicate embroideries. “Follow me,” these soigné, grown-up clothes seemed to whisper.

The designer left the mineral gallery at the National Museum of Natural History unadorned, the scent of freshly waxed floors permeating the room, guests including Bianca Jagger and Ruth Negga seated on metal benches lining the display cases. No theatrics were needed: These clothes had enough oomph to hold your attention.

Copping opened his show with waist-cinched takes on mannish tailoring, a wink to the fact that Lanvin is celebrating the 100th anniversary of its menswear, though he was wise to ditch the coed format and cement his look for Lanvin women’s.

Indeed, the slender, languid dresses – in draped velvet, glossy floral jersey or with tuxedo-inspired details – stole the show.