
Tracksuits have been all over the spring runways, and Junya Watanabe made them the foundation of his fun and lively men’s show. Many were in collaboration with Kappa, and styled in a way that evoked New York’s early hip-hop culture.
Watanabe tossed gold chains galore over his warmup jackets, just like Run-DMC would back in the ’80s, also adding pearls.
He collaborated with jewelry designer Kota Okuda, bedazzling baseball caps with giant brooches, little crowns, safety pins and fake currency. Often, a giant chain link pierced the brim. No doubt hype beasts will be clamoring for them.
Titled “Bling Bling Bling,” this collection looked nothing like Watanabe’s recent work — excepting his ongoing collaborations with Levi’s, Carhartt, New Balance and others — and unleashed a host of new ideas.
The bedazzling extended from hats to clothes, putting Watanabe on a similar wavelength as Dolce & Gabbana in Milan, although Watanabe’s vibe always skews more punk.
He also took a punk attitude toward tailoring, deconstructing jackets from Rue Cambon and Savile Row and transforming them into scarves, stoles or a decorative cage to wear over a track suit.
There were some wry winks to chav culture, including white sneakers and some over-the-top branding with the Kappa logo repeated on sleeves and pant legs, and “JW Man” writ big like the Hollywood sign on some brims.
There were offbeat detours into deconstructed denim, high-waisted dress pants, camp shirts and Bermuda shorts, but none of it dampened the fun factor — and the thrill of seeing a seasoned designer stretch into new fashion territory.








