Chinese designer Huishan Zhang centered his resort 2027 collection around the late Italian style icon Marella Agnelli, who was living between Europe and America in the early ’60s, dressed for both cities and both cultures, as well as images of her captured by Richard Avedon, in which her swan-like neckline often stole the show.

Zhang said he liked the contrast between the clean, simple images and Agnelli’s colorful, layered personality. “She is almost like a rose with thousands of petals,” he added, and the collection followed that idea with long lines, rich texture and controlled drama.

Floral embroideries based on a picture of Agnelli holding roses appeared on tailored jackets and fluid dresses. Zhang said he looked at architectural coloring of that period and graphic surface treatment to create a sharp and intellectual femininity.

A key focus this season was the use of crepe jersey, which Zhang has been building quietly over the past few seasons. He liked how it “beautifully draped” on the body, stretches, and is easy to care for.

In the resort lineup, it expanded from day looks into cocktail and evening, with the inside finished to couture standards. “We really want to uphold the idea that the inside shall always be as beautiful as the outside,” he said.

Zhang also pushed further into daywear and baby cashmere knitwear, part of a plan to offer what he called a “360-degree” wardrobe, so his well-to-do customers can “start enjoying every day with Huishan Zhang,” not just for special occasions.