LONDON — Gieves & Hawkes, the 255-year-old Savile Row tailor now under Frasers Group, is plotting a slow, deliberate entry into the U.S., built around the staying power of “quiet luxury,” British craftsmanship, and emotional connection, according to managing director Jason Gerrard.

Last month he traveled to Los Angeles to host the brand’s first private dinner in the U.S. with the British consulate-general Paul Rennie at the official residence at Hancock Park.

It was a deliberate move, picking Los Angeles over New York, Gerrard said, as the West Coast city has “a real desire for a new integrity-led brand” from those who have fallen out of love with big logos.

“We’re looking to the luxury market but not to the ‘branded’ luxury market, more to the ‘quiet luxury’ market. Our appeal is to those customers who appreciate genuine craftsmanship that shouts louder than label,” Gerrard argued.

He believed that years of designer companies pushing label over quality and hiking up prices have created brand exhaustion in the U.S.

“The customers we are targeting are the very customers who, in a post-COVID world, have woken up to that and are now seeking something new but with heritage, and more importantly, a brand that has genuine integrity in terms of progressive British design creativity and sourcing the very best of fabrics and production from the U.K.,” he said.

Under its current ownership, the brand is taking what Gerrard called a “strategic, planned approach” to the U.S. Built on existing bespoke clientele in Los Angeles and New York, the label is now extending that reach to San Francisco and Dallas through trunk shows.

Gerrard said he has a clear vision for differentiating Gieves & Hawkes from its continental rivals.

“British tailoring is very different in terms of cut and style to that of the Italians. The Italians are amazing at what they do, but they have had a strong market share for the last 15 to 20 years. Gieves & Hawkes offer the customer a different option in terms of cut and design,” he added.

Increasingly, suits are being sold as a lifestyle choice instead of an office obligation, and he believed that difference now works to Savile Row’s advantage. “Tailoring is no longer a resentful purchase — in that men choose to buy rather than have to buy — and offering them a different cut and style is something the market really is calling for,” said Gerrard.

He pointed to the reaction to King Charles III’s wardrobe on his recent U.S. state visit as an example of that changing taste.

“If you look at the incredibly positive feedback on the immaculate suits worn by His Majesty on his recent state visit, it is clear that the American customer is looking for elegance over style,” he said, reiterating that Gieves & Hawkes is firmly positioned on the side of discretion and longevity.

Gerrard said the brand’s development in the U.S. will be guided by the long-term vision that centers on a tight retail footprint. Wholesale will be equally selective, working with only one or two local partners.

“Success for Gieves & Hawkes in the U.S. would be two flagship stores, one on the East Coast, one on the West Coast. We are not interested in rolling out stores — that is not what Gieves & Hawkes is interested in doing. Sustainable, well-planned organic growth,” he added.

“We have seen only too well that overstretching at a store level is dangerous. Having been formed in 1771, it is our responsibility that we continue for a further 255 years. Confidence, yes, but stable more important,” Gerrard continued.

He is mindful not to turn Savile Row into a marketing term. The goal, he said, is to export its essence rather than create a carbon copy.

“Of course, it’s almost impossible to recreate Savile Row outside of Savile Row, and we are not a brand that wants to become a pastiche of itself. The product is the key. That will do the talking,” he added.

Operationally, he is unconcerned about prolonged lead times becoming a deterrent for American clients, particularly at the top end.

“Bespoke takes time and patience. You cannot rush hand-made craftsmanship and the customers understand that. In a world where we are constantly rushing, sometimes the very best comes to those who wait,” Gerrard said.

Frasers Group, the owner of House of Fraser, Sports Direct, Flannels, Agent Provocateur, and Jack Wills, in 2022 acquired Gieves & Hawkes for an undisclosed amount.

Gerrard was brought on board in 2023 to relaunch Gieves & Hawkes via a partnership with Threadology, where he has been CEO since 2015. Threadology is a London-based operation that specializes in creating, managing, and supplying tailoring labels that also include Richard James, Patrick Grant Studio, Shelby & Sons, Twisted Tailor, Without Prejudice, and Viggo.