I have to admit, I’m getting bored with the idea that every season needs to come with a list of trends to follow. A new silhouette, a new bag, a new decade to obsess over. The machines of fashion pump desire by reminding us of what we do not have, then quietly suggests that unless we have it, we might be missing something. We are saturated with fashion, bombarded with images, and increasingly exhausted by the feeling that we are somehow never enough. Images were once fashion’s greatest tool for creating desire. Today, we scroll past thousands of them, nonchalantly, barely remembering any of it. Even the power of celebrities has become diluted — look at how many celebrities one brand casts in a campaign for it to cut through the clutter. Our attention has become fragmented, and when fashion becomes smaller, harder to access and more obsessed with who is inside the room, it creates a vacuum that ultimately becomes out of touch.

So, looking at fall 2026, I wonder if there is another way to read the clothes. Rather than asking what is the trend of the season, what if we ask what kind of woman is emerging from it? Because what I see is not one prescribed way of dressing. I see women using fashion to express different kinds of strength. At one moment, she can be polished, romantic, maybe sensual, or looking for armor. That feels more interesting than another list of things we’re supposed to buy, dressing according to her mood. As a gay man, I have always been fascinated by powerful women. I grew up surrounded by them, watched their movies, danced to their music, but all in a patriarchal society where female power was often something that had to be disguised or softened. Maybe that’s why I always responded to women who knew their own strength. It does not come as a reaction from fear or intimidation. It comes from love, confidence and self-knowledge. It is about a connection.

In the end, time will only tell. We will rarely remember who sat front row years from now or what
the internet decided was the look of the moment. Rather, we will remember how a collection made us
feel. Even after 24 years of going to shows, I still have moments when a model walks out in a look and, for a second, it feels as if the clothes are speaking directly to me. That moment of recognition is what stays. You could see that thinking in very different ways. At Prada, 15 models returned four times, with layers gradually coming off to reveal new versions of the same woman. At Celine, Michael Rider approached styling as another form of authorship, showing how familiar clothes could become something different through the way they are put together. Both suggested something bigger happening in fashion — giving women ideas about possibility rather than insecurity. Turn the page to explore those ideas for fall, finding the style that reflects all the versions of you.

Following market work by Emily Mercer and Thomas Waller

The New Sophisticate

The self-assured woman knows the codes of polish, but she is no longer imprisoned by them. Under Matthieu Blazy, Chanel leads the pack with fresh takes of the tweed skirt suit, boxy shirt, softly tailored jacket, tuxedo suit, and richly textured coat. These wardrobe classics are no longer being worn out of obligation, but with a sense of freedom and individuality.

Celine cashmere and wool natté jacket ($5,700, available at Celine.com).

Balmain cotton and polyamide beaded tweed skirt ($2,990, available at us.Balmain.com).

Chloé superfine wool knit twin set ($1,950, available at Chloe.com).

McQueen cotton tuxedo striped shirt ($1,890, available at Alexandermcqueen.com).

Dior bag ($4,900, available at Dior.com).

Ferragamo leather pumps ($1,250, available at Saksfifthavenue.com).

The Modern Romantic

Romance returns with lace, velvet, ruffles, trains, bustles and historical references, but this is not femininity on a whim, it is femininity as choice. There is something powerful about refusing the idea that strength has to look hard or masculine. Jonathan Anderson for Dior is on a mission to reintroduce historical romanticism by blending different eras from early 19th century, Edwardian and even touches of English country living, but all through a contemporary eye. 

Destree satin jacket ($840, available at Destree.com).

Marc Jacobs organza blouse ($398, available at Marcjacobs.com).

Markarian cotton and nylon dress ($6,175, available for pre-order at Markarian-nyc.com).

Simone Rocha embellished lace and satin skirt ($1,435, available at Net-a-porter.com).

Valentino lace gloves ($480, available at Harrods.com).

Manolo Blahnik velvet-trimmed satin pumps ($1,085, available at Net-a-porter.com).

The Self-possessed Seductress

I am less interested in calling this a sexy trend than in what it says about ownership. This woman wants to show her sensual power with the use of sheer fabrics, lingerie references, transparent layers, and body-conscious silhouettes. She is not necessarily dressing for somebody else’s gaze. She is comfortable on her own and no better example of this power move than the fall ’26 Gucci collection by Demna.

Tom Ford guanteria leather, napa mesh, silk and French lace slipdress ($9,450, available at Tomfordfashion.com).

Wiederhoeft denim corset ($1,790, available at Net-a-porter.com).

Rabanne polyester and metal miniskirt ($2,490, available at Bergdorfgoodman.com).

L’Agence lambskin leather jacket ($1,495, available at lagence.com).

Marni ring ($395, available at Marni.com).

Courrèges bag ($1,190, available at Courreges.com).

Miu Miu sunglasses ($417, available at Bloomingdales.com).

The Fortified Urbanite

At the other end of the spectrum is the woman who wants to be wrapped up and shield herself from the outside world. Shearling, leather, oversized collars, substantial coats, utility elements, and cocooning shapes give clothes a physical purpose. Michael Kors never shies away from total glamour, and tackles protective clothing in high gear always, thank god!

Nour Hammour lambskin leather and shearling bomber ($2,120, available at Nour-Hammour.com).

Prada shearling coat (price upon request, available at Prada).

Sea cotton pants ($425, available at Net-a-porter.com)

Jimmy Choo suede boots ($1,595, available at Harrods.com).

Max Mara cashmere beanie ($305, available at Max Mara, 813 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10065).