
Since Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre last showed at Paris Fashion Week two years ago, they had a baby boy and switched their business to a direct-to-consumer model, which has allowed them to weather the wholesale crisis that has claimed many of their peers.
They also watched from the sidelines as body diversity on the runway slowed from a torrent to a trickle, prompting them to wonder if there was a place left for their size-inclusive label at Paris Fashion Week.
“We started out with a really welcoming, positive message that aligned with a broader trend — as terrible as that sounds. And now, somehow, we’re seen almost as an activist brand, even though that’s not what we’re about at all,” Delepierre said in a preview.
Manas conceded there was a sense of urgency to her earlier attempts to battle fatphobia with her signature ruched, body-conscious designs. These days, her style of dressing is more grab-and-go — hence the title of the collection, “Somehow I Manage.”
“It’s really about poking a bit of fun at my new wardrobe, where nothing is ever ironed,” she said.
Crinkles were pressed into many of the looks, from lace-trimmed skirts with drawstring waists to a beefy corduroy bomber jacket, but the hero item of the season was the oversized shirt, which came in everything from a flannel check to baby pink taffeta.
The duo worked with Belgian lingerie brand Primadonna on a see now, buy now capsule collection, and reworked items from the archive of the brand, which was founded in 1865 and is friendly to the zaftig figure, with 94 cup sizes rising up to an M.
Bodysuits came in faded color combos and off-kilter combinations, like a unitard in leopard and light blue lace, while pencil skirts were embroidered with 22,000 decorative bra ribbons recovered from deadstock.
As the soundtrack switched from the lullaby “Buckeye Jim” to the empowerment anthem “I’m Every Woman,” the message was clear: real women are here to stay.






