Ermanno Scervino was in a nautical mood for spring, taking inspiration from 18th century pirates, adventures on the high seas and damsels in corsets and lace. In less-experienced hands this could have gone wrong, or drifted into Disney cartoon territory, but Scervino’s tailoring know-how, and way with luxury fabric, meant that it sailed into port with style.

Scervino worked with great subtlety, adding delicate corset lacing to the sides of double-breasted jackets, some of which were paired with wide-leg sailor pants. Tailoring also included jackets that were nipped at the waist and a lineup of loose, pleat-front tuxedo shirts worn open over saucy pouf or leather miniskirts.

Slinky dresses in satin and lace had a sweet sensuality. They included slip dresses made from sparkling rose lace or coppery satin, and lace bustier tops teamed with flippy tiered skirts.

A shadowy island landscape with palm trees and beaches appeared as an intarsia pattern on loose-fitting sweaters, and patched onto jeans and denim jackets. It even appeared as a blue, black and white print across a strappy baby doll dress.

Scervino doesn’t usually work with denim, but he said that he treated it with great care “as if it were cashmere or silk,” and that despite all the technology out there, his clothes remain the fruit of “experience, handwork and Italian craftsmanship.”

The Treasure Island theme reached its apex with all of the soft, loose cotton and denim jackets – in red, gold, blue and black. They came with gold frogging on the statement cuffs, collars and fronts, and were tossed casually over those lacy dresses, sailor trousers and pouf-y miniskirts.

Although the jackets were faded and slightly distressed, as if they’d witnessed a few shipwrecks, they were still among the many treasures in Scervino’s collection.