
The voiceover at the Dolce & Gabbana show contended that there is “no single way of dressing,” conjuring freedom of choice. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana certainly endorsed the concept, mixing and matching patterns and textures in a collection that telegraphed playfulness and joy.
The brand’s staples were there, including the boudoir dresses, the intricate lacework and bold jackets bedazzled with rhinestones or sequins in an explosion of color — a very feminine lineup that contrasted with the all-black masculine look worn by Jennifer Lopez front row, her beautiful chiselled face framed by a dark beret.
The designers didn’t travel far from their beloved Sicily, exemplified by a Baroque frescoed family palazzo as a background on the catwalk, a garden in bloom behind a tall window with a white curtain gently moving in the breeze conjuring a lazy summer day. They did, however, travel in time, the voiceover evoking garments being passed down through family generations, underscoring the longevity of the clothes and at the same time the importance of individuality in the way they can be revisited “in an unexpected balance.”
Surely, a crocheted skirt or grandmother’s knickers could easily have been unboxed from a dowry chest, but they looked modern and fresh. In fact, the maximalist collection — rich in embroideries, jewel embellishments, lace, floral and animalier patterns — was aligned with one of the key trends being seen during Milan Fashion Week.
Titled “Stravaganza Siciliana,” the lineup telegraphed the designers’ notion of eccentricity equalling total freedom. Cue the burgundy bell-bottom pants with a rose pattern worn under a sheer black and white polka dot tie neck blouse. Similarly, balloon shorts were worn under a ladylike pussy bow floral shirt, and baggy denim jeans popped under a floor-length leopard printed cape.
Leopard was one of the collection’s core motifs, whether appearing in a knitted cardigan and long skirt, or in a fitted jacket with a golden patina.
The craftsmanship of the looks was superb, seen for example on a military green jacket adorned with rich coral appliqués — a reference to a treasure of the Sicilian sea, also seen in the men’s summer collection in consistency between the two categories. Ditto for the needlework of the pristine white dresses, shorts and tops that reflected traditional techniques passed on through centuries. Multicolored crochet flowers applied on a black lace dress was a work of art. Brocade, damask and furnishing fabrics were revisited in dresses and jackets.
Dolce and Gabbana punctuated every look with jewelry, pearls, crosses, cameos, coral, brooches, stones and talismans. Dainty pumps, boots and handbags were equally embellished — another testament to the skills of the brand’s artisans. “Stravaganza” it may be, but it was beautifully executed and fun to watch.








