“Sicily,” said Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, “is the key to everything.” These words, reproduced on Dolce & Gabbana’s show notes for spring, explain not only the Sturm und Drang and Weimar writer’s passion for the island and how it helps to understand and appreciate Italy; they also telegraph the brand’s signature aesthetic — and its main well of inspiration for nearly 40 years.

The spring 2027 collection was dubbed “Vacanze Siciliane,” or Sicilian holidays, and a giant screen behind the catwalk with images of Taormina and the Isola Bella from dawn to bright daylight beckoned guests wiped out by the Milan June heat to its crystal waters. 

Sicily, however, is much more than a holiday destination and Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have over the years underscored its multiple cultural and historical layers, an island forged and dominated by different conquerors, from the Greeks and Romans to the Normans, the Arabs, Spanish and Bourbons, among others. For spring, the designers paid tribute not only to the brand’s legacy, but also celebrated the island’s many traditions and crafts, through their eyes and their own sensibility. 

Cue the plethora of embellishments, which ranged from those that looked like coral — a treasure of the Sicilian sea — to the colorful and lacquered charms. These decorated soft and fluid pantsuits and ripped denim jeans harking back to the early Aughts — after all, these were solid hits for the brand back then and are likely to be so once again. 

“For us, Sicily has never been a trend,” said Dolce and Gabbana in a joint statement. “With this collection, we wanted to capture the richness and complexity of this land, exploring its places, memories and traditions: from Greek temples to Baroque cities, from seaside villages to the ancient gestures preserved in artisanal workshops.” 

The color palette also recalled the island’s landscape, ranging from the total black that opened the show — Stromboli’s volcanic beaches came to mind — to hues of blue and pistachio — Sicily’s so-called green gold; sand, and limestone. T-shirts bore images of oranges and lemons — a nod to the island’s rich production of citruses, as well as reproductions of Byzantine mosaics and of sea stacks.

The designers, who did not meet the press backstage, said in their statement that black is also a reference to the “island’s intensity and austerity,” while the all-white looks that closed the show express “its lightest and most luminous side.” 

Rope-making “and the handmade techniques passed down through generations” were reflected in the beige tones. “Every color, every fabric and every detail tells a story of memory, beauty and craftsmanship. This is a rich collection because Sicily itself is rich: a mosaic of influences, traditions and contrasts that continues to inspire our creative vision and define its most authentic identity.”

The craft of the brand’s artisans was reflected in the crochet polo shirts and beautiful woven suede jackets. Tailored linen jackets and lightweight cotton pants contributed to the laid-back looks, jazzed up by sparkling brooches. Sicilian openwork embroideries decorated shorts and fluid shirts. Roomy weekend bags, summery crochet shoes and silk swimwear contributed to the summer vibe.

The brand may be going through some changes, with a new organization in place (and a new policy toward WWD; this is the first collection we have reviewed in over a decade) but the designing duo delivered a collection entirely aligned with its history, yet contemporary and further elevated. To wit, co-chief executive officer Stefano Cantino touted the brand’s “undisputed credibility, and the strategy is to focus on its core identity. Over the years it has stayed true to its strong values and image with a unique attitude, and this is winning for the future as well.”