Divisive Shoe Trends at Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS27

You’re reading Worn Weird, Who What Wear UK’s latest monthly column where acting deputy editor, Rebecca Rhys-Evans, spotlights the fantastical world of shoes. From split toes to soleless styles (yes, really), she covers the most “cult” and controversial pairs money can buy. Think PVC jelly shoes, furry exteriors, thick wooden clogs and anything else weird and wonderful sparking hot debate online. They might be a little silly, they may repel men (if not, what’s the point?), but that’s fashion, darling!
This month Rebecca decodes the obscure footwear trends presented at men’s Paris Fashion Week for spring/summer 2027. From Saint Laurent’s viral transparent pointed plastic dress shoes to Nike’s new hybrid sneakers, there’s a lot to unpack. So let’s get into it…

Men's PFW SS27 shoe trends - Saint Laurent, Setchu

Paris Fashion Week men’s has just wrapped up, and the biggest takeaway, the talking point everyone is covering, is the footwear presented. From Saint Laurent’s clear dress shoes to Setchu’s high heeled Geta clogs, as well as Jaden Smith’s sophomore collection at Christian Louboutin, menswear has finally caught the memo that freaky footwear is on the fashion agenda, and I for one, love to see it.

Starting with the most major of all: Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent show. Here are four words I never thought I’d write together: pointed clear polyurethane brogues. Coming in a few hues, from deep glossy burgundy to olive green and a smokey black, some with snakeskin details, all had the same ultra pointed, elongated toe that we’ve seen in the women’s collections for a few seasons, which many critics and commentators have likened to the Medieval poulaine styles worn in the 14th and 15th century. As well as the lace-ups was a slightly more traditional iteration in Chelsea boot form (because Vaccarello likes to cater to everyone, obvs!). The most subversive detail of this footwear collection was not so much a feature of the shoes, but each model’s foot—in that they were all laid bare, below the the PVC upper. And without socks! Just five free range piggies squished inside each shoe in 35+ degree heat.

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This collection debut comes just a month or so after Chanel’s viral soleless sandals that basically announced the naked shoe as the new naked dress. Is this Saint Laurent’s more wearable answer to this trend? Is this menswear finally catching on? Either way, the dogs are barking, but so am I.

Jaden Smith image of Christian Louboutin menswear shoes ss27

The fabulously freaky, wonderfully weird shoes didn’t stop at Saint Laurent transparent lace-ups. Christian Louboutin—designed by Jaden Smith—showcased a red ‘shoe’ (if you can call it that), that more evoked a monster’s paw than it did a traditional sneaker, boot or slip-on. Smith also took the dress shoe to new heights, or rather lengths, introducing an Oxford lace-up with a long front, harsh square toe and toe-like mouldings on the top.

Nike too presented several new models for the coming spring season, embracing more hybrids that made ‘sneakerinas’ and ‘snoafers’ look relatively old hat. The Air Force 1 has received a makeover that has a square toe, a plaid print and a version in tan suede with turquoise embellishment that might persuade John Wayne to hang up his cowboy boots.

Finally, special mention must be made to Setchu, who dressed male models in its traditional Japanese Geta clogs, but instead of their usual heightened but flat sole, had a ‘high heel’ shape. Men in heels—yes please!