Christian Cowan paid homage to Hollywood sirens in his fall show and, for spring, he doubled down on divas.

“They’re just a fascination of mine, but I’ve evolved the concept a bit,” he said during a preview at his TriBeCa studio. Whereas last season was about the moments just before an actress steps onto the stage, still putting on her face, this time her face was on, but underneath the spotlights, her inner demons reared theirs. 

“I was watching ‘Gentlemen Prefer Blondes,’ which has the best costumes ever, and it’s such a beautiful film, but also so sad, especially once you know what happens to Marilyn later,” Cowan explained, adding this main inspiration was a quote Monroe gave in her last interview with Life magazine in 1962: “The public scares me, but people I trust.” 

The public certainly doesn’t scare Cowan. In addition to wardrobing a Broadway play and an upcoming film, he’s been on a red carpet tear lately with viral moments on Lupita Nyong’o, Zendaya and his own fiancé Sam Smith.

Still, Cowan said he’s fascinated by the darkness and vulnerability brewing underneath glamor and adoration, which many actresses— and designers — know all too well. It surfaced here in decrepit fabrics, hosiery, and colors, or lack thereof as most of the looks came in black or midnight interrupted by seemingly random pops of pink or yellow.

These were distracting because what really drew the eye were the monochromatic dresses with a sultry ‘30s quality and a surprising level of chic. As a sign of Cowan’s aesthetic maturation, there was no “butt cleavage” in sight, only vintage lace or a single rosette accenting the naval or an open back.

Cowan said he’s been drawn to these subtle flourishes lately over the kitschier feathers and crystals that defined his earlier career. “It’s my Spanish heritage forcing its way through. I mean, my grandmother was literally a lace-maker.”

Another sign was the fact that this was not an obvious Monroe tribute, which would’ve felt gimmicky on her centenary. In fact, the closer, a padded red fishtail with Chantilly-trimmed bullet-breasts, referenced another blonde bombshell — Jayne Mansfield — while Gothic Victoriana sprinkled throughout referenced a Gen Z musician.

Pointing to a witchy mock-neck jacket tacked to his board, Cowan joked: “That’s my Ethel Cain girlie. She looks like she’s about to churn butter.”

Although more daywear is in the works (the frogged “inside-out” denim was a teaser), for now Cowan’s sights are clearly set on evening and red carpet.

Days earlier, he sent out preliminary images of the collection to stylists, “and the feedback’s been incredible,” he beamed. Time will tell which look Law Roach called dibs on.