PARIS — So long quiet luxury.

As a maximalist wave hits the spring 2027 runways, aiming to lure customers back with crafty propositions and rich embellishments, presentations here are stepping up their game too.

Always a fan of theatrics and drama, Roger Vivier’s creative director Gherardo Felloni revisited the brand’s heritage by tweaking its codes in a more-is-more direction. It made for a strong collection, divided into subcategories duly split across the halls of the company’s Left Bank headquarters that opened last year and that on Thursday welcomed guests including Cynthia Erivo, Amanda Lear and K-pop star Yeji for the spring 2027 presentation.

One of the brand’s enduring staples, the Belle Vivier style defined by a squared buckle on the front was revisited in a new daytime silhouette set on a chunkier spoon heel, which Felloni mined from the archives.

The new slingback version featured a wider buckled vamp, a more rounded toe and new materials such as soft patent leather. A lively combination of pastel tones marked different iterations of the design, which was also rendered in satin or in solid-hued suede.

“It’s a wider shape, slightly rounder and more feminine and comfortable,” Felloni said during a walk-through. “This three-inch heel nods to an entire series [brand founder] Roger Vivier did in the ‘80s, toward the end of his career, which are lesser known.…I liked the idea of mixing opposite features, like this geometric buckle with the sinuous shape of this heel. It cast a new, unexpected light on the [Belle Vivier] design.”

In another room, the style’s timeless appeal was given another modern spin via washed denim, which was frayed in pumps and mules through a handmade technique and elevated via a profusion of crystals and turquoise appliqués.

In the same spirit of marrying the casual with the special, Felloni introduced sneakers crafted in candy-toned satin or heavily embroidered lace that came with a slim rubber sole molded to leave an intricate floral pattern as a footprint.

Felloni’s flamboyant side peaked as he continued to explore the butterfly theme, nodding to shoes designed by the brand’s founder in the ‘60s. First reprised by Felloni in the Pièce Unique fall 2026 collection unveiled during Paris Couture Week in July, the butterfly motif was here expanded and turned into a hard-to-miss, embroidered embellishment encrusted with rhinestones and pearls that featured on the front of satin pointed mules and slingbacks, as well as sandals with Vivier’s signature Choc heel and jewel bags.

“I tried to tap again into the savoir-faire [of the brand] to do this 3D shape,” said the designer, who has been pulling style references from Vivier’s archives — now housed in the Parisian headquarters’ basement space that was formerly a chapel — ever since he joined the brand in 2018.

Elsewhere, Felloni’s encouraged his clients’ self-expression and personalization via different printed silk scarves to knot to sandals and around the ankles, or chunky jewelry that could be customized with an array of charms.

Sequined and beaded waistcoats matching the collection’s themes and millinery rounded out the lineup, further avenues for Felloni to express his creativity and the company’s craftsmanship.