It remains one of America’s most interesting cities, and now it is seeing a continuing comeback.  Downtown remains mostly empty of foot traffic, but I was stunned to see new office buildings and signs of budding prosperity.  It did not feel abandoned or hopeless.

Detroit Institute of Art is one of America’s best art museums, showing impeccable taste, though it is notable how much the picture donations simply disappear after some point in time.  This is a temple for those are skeptical about modern art, as you will not find it reprensented much here.  The American art, the Rembrandt Visitation, the Poussin Holy Family, the Breughel, and the huge Diego Rivera murals are all to die for.  The average quality of painting is high as well.

Baobab Fare, not too far from the museum, is a good Burundian (!) restaurant in town.

I was lucky enough to visit the General Motors research and development complex in Cranbrook, mostly designed by Eero Saarinen, due to the ingenuity of Dan Wang (it is mostly not open to the public).  Around 20,000 people work there, and it remains a temple of modernist architecture, perhaps anachronistic in effect but beautiful nonetheless.  I had not realized how strong the colors were, as that does not come through in the photos.

The Saarinen (papa Saarinen!) house in the Cranbrook Art Museum is perhaps the best Art Deco design I have seen.  The museum itself has excellent architecture, sculptures, and gardens, rather than being much of an art museum proper.

Here are good NYT photos of that part of the joy ride.

Overall a trip to the Detroit area is one of the very best American visits you can do, highly recommended, automobile required of course that is why they call it the Motor City.