Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering what’s changing in how fashion is made, scaled or engineered from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.

Xefco

One Australian startup is trying to clean up one of fashion’s more draining problems.

Xefco has shipped its first commercial Ausora system to Indonesia, regarding it as the first plasma-based textile dyeing machine deployed at industrial scale, eliminating water from the dyeing process.

The system uses plasma-enhanced chemical vapor deposition to embed pigments and finishes directly into the fibers in one step, replacing the usual wet dyeing. Xefco claims the process slashes energy use by 90 percent, cuts emissions by up to 94 percent and produces zero wastewater. It works on both natural and synthetic fibers.

“The existing water-intensive processes used to put color and functional finishes on fabrics carry the highest cost and compliance burden in the textiles supply chain,” said Tom Hussey, co-founder and CEO of Xefco. “That recognition from government reflects what we’re already seeing in the market—strong commercial demand.”

For Xefco, this is a move from R&D to real manufacturing. The Geelong-based company has about $5 million in Australian government backing and already has 12 units spoken for worldwide. Each system can handle up to 2.2 million meters of fabric per year, with installations now underway in major manufacturing hubs such as Indonesia and Vietnam.

“The industry has made its position clear,” Hussey said. “Our focus now is building the manufacturing capacity to keep pace with demand.”

Pangaia

Pangaia is still betting on biobased materials for performance wear.

The fashion brand and material science company has introduced its Courtside Capsule as part of its SS26 collection, centered on a new fabric called (gaia)BioStretch, which blends biobased nylon and plant-derived elastane as an alternative to fossil-fuel-based synthetics.  

The material combines 72 percent biobased nylon derived from industrial corn feedstock with elastane containing roughly 70 percent renewable content, intending to replicate the stretch, recovery and durability expected in activewear without relying on virgin petroleum inputs.  

The launch targets a category that remains heavily dependent on synthetic fibers—particularly in performance apparel—where function tends to outweigh material innovation. Alongside BioStretch, the capsule incorporates GRS-certified recycled nylon, another nod to cutting reliance on virgin inputs. 

Additional finishing technologies from textile and materials innovation company HeiQ are used for cooling and odor control.

Ecco x Spinnova

Ecco is putting leather waste back into circulation.

The Danish footwear brand has launched a limited-edition “BIOM” 720 sneaker featuring a protein-based fiber developed with Spinnova, using leather by-products typically discarded during production.

“Working closely with Spinnova, we’ve explored how new approaches to materials can unlock value from existing resources,” said Thomas Gøgsig, CEO of Ecco. “By combining our expertise with their pioneering technology, we’re pushing how footwear can be made.”

The process starts with ‘wet blue’ shavings—thin scraps left over from leather processing. Instead of dissolving them with chemicals, Ecco and Spinnova mechanically turn these scraps into textile fibers. The result is a fiber built for durability and flexibility, with performance on par with wool and more stretch than cotton.

“This launch is a meaningful moment for us, as it represents the culmination of over five years of close development work with Ecco,” said Janne Poranen, chief executive officer of Spinnova. “Together, we have shown that leather by-product can be transformed into a high‑quality textile fiber with commercial relevance, and it is rewarding to now see this innovation become part of a finished product.”

The timing matters for Spinnova. After a tough 2025 that saw revenue drop and its Woodspin joint venture with Suzano fall apart, the Finnish fiber maker has spent the past year regrouping. Now, the focus is on cutting costs and scaling up through new partnerships.

The BIOM 720 is being released in limited quantities across select European markets.

Ponda

Ponda is betting that insulation can come from wetlands instead of oil or animals.

The Bristol-based biomaterials startup has opened pre-registration for a crowdfunding campaign, aiming to scale up BioPuff. The insulation is made from bulrushes grown on rewetted peatlands, a process known as paludiculture—essentially, farming wetlands rather than draining them.

“Fashion has spent years talking about the need for better materials, but the real test is whether those materials can work in products, in supply chains and at meaningful scale,” said Julian Ellis-Brown, co-founder and CEO of Ponda. “That is what we are building with BioPuff, not just a new insulation, but a system that connects product performance with wetland regeneration.”

The crowdfunding push is designed to help Ponda move beyond early traction. Funds will go toward ramping up manufacturing, building out operations and getting BioPuff into the hands of more brands.

Ponda is connecting material innovation with land restoration. Peatlands make up only 3 percent of the world’s land, but they store more carbon than all forests combined. When drained, they flip from carbon sinks to major sources of emissions. By sourcing insulation from wetland crops, Ponda positions BioPuff as an alternative to both synthetics and down—and as a way to help restore damaged ecosystems.

Proceeds from the crowdfunding campaign will support manufacturing scale-up and go-to-market expansion.

Next-gen material maker Natural Fiber Welding (NFW) is taking another run at rubber.

The Peoria, Illinois-based company’s latest move is Pliant PCS: a fully biobased outsole compound meant to replace petroleum-based rubber in shoes. It’s part of NFW’s broader push into materials that have to perform under pressure.

Biobased outsoles have always had a reputation for falling short on durability and traction. NFW claims this version finally meets the mark—with strength and grip that stack up against standard rubber. Pliant PCS skips petrochemicals, plastics and toxic additives entirely, the company said. Brands can use it as a drop-in replacement without overhauling supply chains; NFW offers it either as a bulk compound for manufacturers or as finished outsoles ready to go.

“The performance data on Pliant PCS speaks for itself: tensile and tear strength well above industry requirements, grip that competes with synthetic alternatives, and a supply model that fits how brands actually develop and manufacture footwear,” said Steve Zika, CEO of Natural Fiber Welding. “We built Pliant PCS to eliminate the tradeoffs brands have had to accept when considering biobased outsole materials. It delivers on that.”

The material is debuting at the Footwear Innovation and Technology Summit in Vietnam, with commercial availability beginning this month.

Hyosung

Hyosung is working to scale up biobased elastane, seeking to play a larger role in the industry’s climate initiatives.

Building on this focus, as a lead sponsor of the 2026 Global Fashion Summit, Hyosung plans to put its biobased elastane at the forefront. The fiber is made using a process that turns sugarcane into the core ingredients for stretch yarn, the world’s largest spandex manufacturer said.

Traditionally, decarbonizing elastane has been rather challenging. The synthetic fiber is derived from petrochemicals and must meet high-performance standards for activewear and compression. In response, Hyosung says its biobased version is designed to meet those demands while reducing fossil fuel use.

To further support its ambitions and transition biobased materials from niche to mainstream adoption, Hyosung is investing $1 billion in a new biobased production system in Vietnam, managing everything from raw material processing to finished fiber.

CLO Virtual Fashion x Vivienne Westwood

CLO Virtual Fashion is leaning further into gamifying digital design.

The company, a 15-year-old garment simulation firm known for its 3D garment design software, digital asset management and collaborative design development platforms, announced its partnership with Vivienne Westwood. The duo will launch “Cut, Slash & Corset,” a global 3D design competition for emerging digital creators. Hosted on Connect, the challenge asks participants to reinterpret the house’s signature corsetry and tartan in CLO and Marvelous Designer, with final looks rendered in Unreal Engine using MetaHuman tools.

The challenge is to take Westwood’s signature techniques and reimagine them for the digital world, as a test of how well traditional patternmaking can mesh with live simulation and avatar-based design. CLO is also pushing entrants to create their own textiles and patterns using its AI tools.

The competition runs through June 11, with $3,500 in total prizes, which will be judged by the Vivienne Westwood 3D and CGI team.