Ever since I got engaged last year, I’ve become a jewelry snob. I’m Who What Wear’s unofficial fine jewelry reporter, and my Instagram and Pinterest saves are all kinds of wacky jewelry trends I write about and shop for myself.

Lately, though, I’ve found myself gravitating toward diamonds that aren’t demanding all of your attention. You know the kind—less blinding sparkle, more of a soft, candlelit glow that feels quietly expensive. That’s exactly the appeal of Georgian-set diamonds, a centuries-old style that’s suddenly back on my radar and, honestly, my wish list.

The technique dates back to the Georgian era in the United Kingdom, when jewelry was designed to be worn in low light (read: dinner parties lit by chandeliers, not LEDs). Instead of the super-precise, ultra-exposed settings we see today, diamonds were set into gold collets in the 18th and 19th centuries throughout the Georgian period. The setting is reminiscent of a modern-day bezel but has a bit more structure. There’s usually a slightly raised rim and chunkier prongs holding everything in place, which gives the stones this moody, glowing effect rather than a sharp, high-watt sparkle. It feels softer, more handcrafted, and knowingly intentional.

Steph Mazuera model wears Georgian-set diamond earrings.

(Image credit: Steph Mazuera)

Just like old mine–cut diamonds, antique settings like Georgian-set diamond jewelry are having a moment. What’s really pushed them back into the spotlight is the current wave of effortlessly cool jewelry placement. Zendaya’s engagement ring from Jessica McCormack basically sealed the deal for me. Her signature blackened-gold and button-back Georgian settings make the whole look feel modern instead of costumey. And then there’s Zoë Kravitz, a Jessica McCormack ambassador, who wears these pieces in that undone, layered way that makes you rethink everything you thought you knew about antique jewelry.