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If microneedling — the process of rolling tiny needles over your skin to improve tone and texture — gives you the ick, then you may be excited about a buzzy new skin care ingredient that many claim gives you the same benefits. It’s called spicules, it’s growing in popularity (especially on social media) and it doesn’t require pricking yourself over and over.

Wondering how an ingredient that is applied topically can do the same thing as something that literally punctures your skin? To find out, I interviewed board-certified dermatologists on what spicules are and how they can benefit the skin. Plus, I asked them what to look for in skin care that contains spicules and got their recommendations on actual products.

What are spicules?

Though spicules aren’t actually needles, they do mirror them. “They are needle-like structures that come from marine sponges,” says Dr. Marie Jhin, a dermatologist and author of K-Beauty Secrets. “Similar to microneedling, they act as tiny physical stimulators that create micro-channels in the skin, which can help enhance the penetration of active ingredients.”

Think of them as exfoliants. “Most topical exfoliants disintegrate dead cells at the surface,” says Dr. Eleonora Fedonenko, a dermatologist and the medical director of Your Laser Skin Care in Los Angeles. “Spicules take this one step further by causing a micro-injury response that signals your skin to produce collagen and increase cell turnover.”

The other unique thing about spicules is that, unlike traditional microneedling treatments, where metal needles are inserted and removed, these microscopic particles remain within the superficial skin for a period of time before naturally shedding away with normal skin turnover, says Jihn.

Because of this, Jihn says that spicules can be attached to active ingredients such as peptides, glutathione and PDRN to help them penetrate more deeply.

What are the benefits of spicules in skin care?

The main benefit of adding skin care with spicules into your routine is that it can help other active ingredients penetrate better. “They can also improve texture, refine pores and make your treatments more effective without harsh scrubbing,” says Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a board-certified dermatologist in New York. “And unlike using a rough scrub to exfoliate, spicules are uniform, so they reduce the risk of irritation.”

The experts I spoke to also said that one of the major benefits of spicules is that they mimic the effects of in-office treatments — like microneedling — without you having to spend the time going into an office or spend the money.

Is there anyone who shouldn’t use skin care with spicules?

As with any treatment or product, skin care with spicules in it may not be for everyone. “Anyone with rosacea, active eczema or a compromised skin barrier needs to keep away,” says Fedonenko. “The mechanical action of the spicules making them effective in normal skin will enhance the inflammation in already-reactive skin and the inflammation I’ve seen in those patients isn’t subtle.”

You should also be careful if you are using other skin care products or medications that may make your skin sensitive. “I’d caution anybody in mid-treatment with retinoids or any active acne medications, as stacking aggressive exfoliation methodologies may be too harsh,” says Fedonenko.

The best skin care with spicules in it

Fedonenko says she has found that Medicube’s Exosome Shot gives her patients consistently positive results. Not familiar with exosomes? They are made up of proteins, lipids, growth factors and microRNA and they can help skin cells calm inflammation, repair damaged tissue and increase collagen and elastin production. This exosome serum from Medicube contains spicules to help get those exosomes deeper into your skin to improve texture and tone, according to the brand.

This serum, which comes recommended by Jihn, is gentle enough to be used daily because it pairs spicules with centella asiatica extract and hyaluronic acid. Both of these ingredients are soothing and nourishing, which help to counteract any irritation that may occur from the spicules. When applied regularly, the cream gently exfoliates, which can help treat blemishes and improve overall skin texture, according to the brand.

Kopelman likes Mediheal’s spicule products for their efficacy and effectiveness. This serum set comes with a solution that tightens pores that is intended to be applied first. Then, you apply a gel mask that contains spicules to help the first product absorb. Also helpful, the gel mask goes from white to clear when all the active ingredients have been absorbed, according to the brand.

The spicules in this serum help niacinamide and tranexamic acid penetrate skin more deeply to address uneven skin tone and brighten your complexion. To get the most out of this product, apply it to clean skin before any other product — the spicules will help anything you apply afterwards penetrate and absorb more fully.

This mask has two steps. First, apply the spicule serum — it also contains collagen to help plump skin, according to the brand. Then, apply the gel mask to help the serum sink in. The mask should be left on overnight for maximum results. It also contains hyaluronic acid to hydrate and niacinamide to nourish. The result: Once the mask is off, your skin should look plump and glowy.

How I picked the best skin care with spicules in it

To help you shop for skin care products that contain spicules, I asked experts what to focus on as you browse. Here is what they had to say:

• Concentration: “Concentration is where most skin care with spicules will fall short,” says Fedonenko. “If the concentration is too low, you will get no real penetration.” That said, if you are new to spicules, you may want to start out with a slightly lower concentration to avoid irritation. Most of the products on the list above have between .1 and 1 percent concentration, which experts agree is ideal for people who are new to this ingredient. If you have been using skin care with spicules, you could try for a slightly stronger concentration.

• Other ingredients: The main job of spicules is to help other active ingredients penetrate the skin more deeply so they can be as effective as possible. So, it is important to choose a spicule serum that contains other ingredients your skin may need — like hyaluronic acid for hydration, collagen for plumping or niacinamide for nourishment. Additionally, since spicules can be irritating, it can help to find serums that have soothing ingredients incorporated into them, says Fedonenko. Centella asiatica, allantoin and niacinamide are all good options for this.
• Price: Skin care products come in a wide range of price points — and adding yet another product to your routine can sky rocket your beauty budget. To keep things reasonable, I focused on products containing spicules that are under $30.

Meet our experts

At NBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also take steps to ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.

• Dr. Marie Jhin is a dermatologist and author of K-Beauty Secrets.
• Dr. Eleonora Fedonenko is a dermatologist and the medical director of Your Laser Skin Care in Los Angeles.
• Dr. Hannah Kopelman is a board-certified dermatologist in New York.
• Dr. Jane Yoo is a dermatologist and Mohs surgeon in New York.

Why trust NBC Select?

I’m a commerce editor at NBC Select and a journalist who regularly covers beauty, home and lifestyle. I have recently reported on vibration plates and red light therapy for hair loss. For this story, I interviewed dermatologists about incorporating spicules into your skin care routine.