If you’re a regular Who What Wear UK reader, you’ll know that French style is our gold standard. With an innate ability to elevate even the simplest items (from jeans to capris and loafers), Parisians have long been my go-to source of inspiration whenever I’m in a styling rut or facing a wardrobe dilemma. Which is why, on my search for a new top to pair with my current denim rotation of stovepipe jeans, cigarette cuts and low-rise pairs, I discovered that French fashion people appear to have a new favourite replacing their usual spring broderie anglaise blouses: sculptural pleated tops.

Crafted with intentional folds and tucks, pleated tops have long been synonymous with refined elegance but with an edgier, more directional twist. If you’ve been a follower of fashion for a while, you’ll know that pleated tops aren’t exactly new. Issey Miyake’s autumn/winter 1993 runway show, where the aptly named Pleats Please line was first launched, revolutionised the way the industry saw the possibility of pleats. And so for decades, sculptural, pleated styles have become synonymous with the brand—and minimalist chic.

I think this is why it’s fascinating that French women are turning to pleated tops this spring. The move feels like a direct departure from the laissez-faire romanticism we tend to picture when we imagine French style. But when I think about all the hallmarks that make French fashion such a market leader, modern pleats feel like the logical next step.

French women often lean into textures when dressing, especially those with an inherent sense of “femininity”. From lace to tulle—and now pleats—these details always feel imbued with a carefree attitude. Whether rendered in a button-down shirt or a sleeveless silhouette, the best-dressed French women on my feed are proving that pleated tops are the newest hero in the modern capsule wardrobe (with no ironing required). And the styling couldn’t be chicer. From jeans and glove flats to fluid midi skirts, each outfit interpretation I’ve seen is inherently French.