Ludovic de Saint Sernin spent last winter in self-imposed isolation, sketching alone and listening to his creative inner voice for the fall collection — a stripped-back and raw return to the essence of his designs. The collection, rendered in a restrained palette of black, white and red, played with the tension between softness and structure, full of fringes while velvet, leather, lace and metal mesh worked in contrast to form graphic, sensual silhouettes.

“This was a very intimate process for me,” he said. “I wanted to go about this as if I was doing my first season — free of expectation, free of concern about how it would be received. It was just about the materials I love and the colors I love.”

Hand-cut details and his interplay of unexpected textures demonstrated the designer’s renewed focus on craftsmanship, letting materials and construction speak for themselves in a fashion landscape that feels dominated by the relentless pace of new collections and overstimulation of a constant feed of images.

The Brussels-born designer used an instinctive approach to the collection, apparent in its hand-sewn leather appliqués, as well as experimental use of fringe and metal mesh, which hugged the form and moved with surprising lightness despite their weight. He’s long used metal, but previous iterations “felt like armor,” and he wanted a new softness this season.

Several skirts and tops were inspired by the sculptural geometry of Belgian furniture, translating tactile, crafted forms into wearable, almost architectural shapes. Other pieces were reinterpretations of the slinky nightie, with cutouts and jagged, asymmetrical hems.

The house is coming up on a decade, and accessories have emerged as a clear growth category, particularly as the brand’s clientele is shifting. As a result, the designer expanded the Cleavage Bag family this season with a clutch and bucket version, and introduced the Harness Bag, which nods subtly to BDSM codes.

“We wanted to offer a fuller range for a growing female audience,” he said, noting the brand’s attention in the U.S. with lots of celebrity support, as well as the strategic importance of China as his next big market expansion.

After a high-profile Zara collaboration and ongoing work as creative director for pop star Tate McRae, de Saint Sernin is booked and busy. Yet this collection’s pared-back approach felt like he took a rare moment to breathe.