PARIS — After taking a scroll through Première Vision’s programming this edition, it felt palpably slimmer.

But organizers said that the leaner program reflected a strategic reallocation of budget resources rather than a tightening of the belt as the trade show adjusts to a more cautious, fragmented global fashion market.

Instead of a packed speaker lineup, the three-day fair focused on expanding targeted services designed to deliver return on investment for exhibitors and visitors, said Première Vision chief executive officer Florence Rousson.

A growing hosted buyer and brand program is key, she explained, taking brand representatives, including many from the U.S. and Asia, beyond the convention hall. That included guided off-site tours of Parisian boutiques to introduce brands to new retail concepts, as well as a partnership with Galeries Lafayette to host department store visits.

At the same time, the fair reduced the number of large, generalist panels and invested instead in guided tours, one-on-one meetings and an upgraded app to help visitors plan tightly scheduled visits. The Première Vision fashion team also focused on logistics for visiting brands, working “like a personal shopper for them” to identify suppliers to meet.

“People have less time to visit a show, so our proposal is perhaps a more global offer, with a higher focus on fashion. We know that we have to give more information, a more personal approach, more targeted advice or understanding of how the market is evolving,” Rousson said.

With tighter budgets, she noted, some attendees now arrive on the opening morning and depart by the end of the second day.

“There is a measure of the return on investment for the exhibitor and the visitors, that’s why it’s important to work on the right content,” she said. “When you decide to promote a service or information, it has to have an added value that you are creating for the market as well.”

Rousson said investment levels by parent company GL Events would remain stable. Educational content had not disappeared, but will become more targeted toward immediate business needs rather than general discussion.

But despite structural shifts, the convention continued to attract young designers and emerging brands. Attendees included Paris-based designer Jeanne Friot, London-based artist and designer Jaffa Sama, and executives from South Korea’s Post Archive Faction. CEO Sookyo Jeong said he made the trip from Seoul after hearing from employees previously at Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton that the show is essential for networking.

Friot said Première Vision remains a must-see for emerging talent, even as her own brand now mostly uses bespoke production and long-standing relationships with French artisans.

“For people at the beginning of their business, it’s really important to be at these kinds of events, to meet everyone and source a lot of information,” she said.

Beyond Fabrics, Into Beauty

Première Vision is selectively broadening its mix beyond fabrics. Following last season’s activation with white-label nail polish supplier Faibila, the fair added fragrance this year through Robertet. If feedback continues to be positive, organizers plan to introduce around 20 additional beauty-sector exhibitors or experts at the September edition.

“Cosmetic products like perfume or nail varnish are really interesting to brands in terms of business, because they can do high margins on these kind of products, and that is interesting in terms of results, for financial reasons,” Rousson said. “Brands are looking for new product lines.”

She stressed that the ambition was not to turn Première Vision into a beauty trade show. Any expansion will remain tightly curated, and focused on white-label partners that support fashion brand extensions.

International Strategy, Tranoï Synergy

This edition also highlighted synergies with GL Events’ Tranoï trade show as the group continues to build a wider fashion ecosystem. Japan was featured as a country of honor, with a large museum-style exhibit from the Japan Fashion Week Organization and a display of upcycled kimono artworks by Voutrail.

More than 80 percent of exhibitors and visitors came from outside France, with South Korea and Saudi Arabia among the fastest-growing markets this season, Rousson said.

Saudi Arabia is a particular focus for the future, with Première Vision executives working with the Saudi Fashion Council to explore opportunities in the region. GL Events’ fashion division has also strengthened ties with Riyadh, including hosting designers locally and bringing a Saudi pavilion to Tranoï Tokyo.

“It’s a key country for the region,” Rousson said. “They have huge capacity in terms of investment to support the market…that could also be interesting for European brands and exhibitors.”

She added that Première Vision needs to leverage its global reach as geopolitical and trade dynamics are in constant upheaval.

“The question today isn’t how big a show is,” she said. “It’s whether it delivers relevance and efficiency in a market where uncertainty has become the norm.”

Smaller Booths, Big Sustainability Ambitions

Major fiber producers Naia from Eastman and Lenzing returned this season — albeit with smaller installations as part of cost control measures. But PV is still an important date on the calendar.

“Less doesn’t necessarily mean worse,” said public relations executive Giulio Ferro of the foot traffic throughout the halls. “More quality than quantity sometimes is also a strategic choice.”

At Naia’s booth, executives struck a cautiously optimistic tone even as brands work with tighter budgets, grapple with tariff drama and rising consumer and regulatory scrutiny of sustainability claims.

Lenzing also opted for a smaller booth, driven by cost discipline and portfolio focus rather than reduced commitment, said Bernd Schleuchardt, senior manager of business development for apparel.

“It’s more important to be here than to be big,” Schleuchardt said.

He explained that the pressure to have a splashy booth is not always in line with the fiber innovation cycle. Science can lag behind the fashion calendar, as well as designers’ desire to see something “new” each season, but Première Vision is still a key location to build relationships with luxury and global brands.

Against that backdrop, both suppliers premiered new technologies.

Naia debuted Naia Lyte, a lightweight, higher-tenacity fiber designed for sheer and performance-sensitive applications.

Lenzing used the fair to debut a partnership with German machinery specialist Karl Mayer, as part of its collaboration-led research and development. The new tech will create a yarn with low hairiness and better performance.

“By combining fiber innovation with downstream processing expertise, we aim to support scalable, industrial solutions that open up new commercial opportunities for cellulose fibers in warp knitting,” Schleuchardt said.

Still, he said, brands are reacting to uncertainty by focusing on price, and will use less-sustainable materials such as plastic bottle-based polyester, which is then marketed to the consumer with green credentials.

Executives at both companies said that while sustainability remains important, it is no longer enough.

“Brands will not choose sustainability if it doesn’t come with performance,” said Ferro, particularly in denim, underwear and activewear. How partner brands communicate sustainability is shifting as well, with some highlighting fiber composition openly and promoting the Naia name and others keeping material choices low-profile amid greenwashing concerns.

“Brands are afraid to talk about sustainability. It’s very hard for them. I think they have the hardest job — making it digestible and helping the consumer understand and, of course, still putting forward quality performance of materials,” he said.

Bringing the Industry Together

Première Vision also hosted the Strategic Committee for the Fashion & Luxury Sector for the second time. During the meeting, the committee launched the Fashion and Beauty Excellence Network under its Living Heritage Company label, bringing together 238 member companies across creative industries.

The network aims to raise members’ profiles, provide guidance on business challenges and promote participation at fashion weeks and international trade shows.