As Mimi So marks 30 years in business, the New York-based fine jeweler is introducing a one-of-a-kind piece that reflects both her history and outlook: the Cotton Candy Necklace. Valued at $1.5 million, it’s part of her Signature Collection and centers on a spectrum of rare, untreated pink gemstones sourced from around the world.

The necklace “is a pink ribbon, a burst of happiness inspired by a nostalgic youth, the joy of tasting pure sugar, accentuated with our signature Bow, which is a reminder, ‘You are the gift,’” So, who founded her eponymous brand in Manhattan’s Diamond District in 1995, told WWD.

“We all share moments in our lives where we achieved certain milestones personally or professionally, and to celebrate your own accomplishments, to not wait for someone to recognize you. It is important we recognize ourselves, which, for most, is often forgotten. So this is my note to you,” she said of the creation.

The designer has steadily built her brand around the idea of jewelry as a personal narrative, and with this one-of-a-kind piece, she described it as representing “past, present and future.”

The necklace features an ombré arrangement of unheated, natural pink gemstones set in 18-karat rose gold with pavé diamonds. Stones include Padparadscha sapphires from Sri Lanka and Madagascar, neon spinels from Tanzania, imperial pink topaz from Brazil, pink tourmalines from Mozambique and kunzite from Pakistan. A detachable drop element allows for multiple styling options, and the brand’s signature bow motif is integrated into the design.

The clasp closure ends with stepped concentric rectangles. The design, she shared, was inspired by a childhood memory of looking out her window and thinking about “the past, present and looking forward, curious what the future may hold.” The idea of building “one piece at a time” she said, helped informed the detail.

Using untreated gems was a defining idea for So. “Unheated natural gemstones are more valuable because of the color, it will not fade or change with time,” she said. “It carries a different aesthetic for the collector, parallel to art. I am the collector first. I admire the beauty and then the financial investment.”

Among the most difficult stones to secure, she said, was a 4.05-carat cushion-cut vivid hot pink spinel from Mahenge, Tanzania. She described the stones as “collector’s items,” often traded privately among serious buyers. “It is impossible to find a similar stone because these are natural materials,” she said. “That’s the beauty in a natural, untreated gemstone.”

Her preference for untreated gems is also philosophical. “I am a purist in my design philosophy,” she said, citing her training as a graphic artist. “My job is to elevate that beauty and bring out the purity.”

Technically, the project sometimes presented challenges. For example, several stones broke during the setting process, requiring replacements that matched the original color gradation. “We were on the edge of our seats because we can’t replace the colors, so we would have to start over again, and we did,” she said candidly.

The necklace received the AGTA Spectrum Buyer’s Choice Award and an honorable mention in Evening Wear Couture. “To receive recognition amongst other incredible talent in our industry,” and from top retailers and editors, “is pretty awesome,” she said, adding that peer acknowledgment carries the most weight in a decidedly competitive market.

Reflecting back at herself when she was a young designer who opened her first shop in Manhattan’s Diamond District, she imagined a simple reaction: “Wow. I’m happy to see you are still passionate about your dream. That’s a piece to be proud of.”

Continuing her 30th anniversary career celebrations, So is planning to launch her own fragrance in 2026, expanding her brand into new markets.