It was the usual chaotic scene outside Balenciaga’s show on Saturday night in Paris, but was it because of brand heat, or the presence of “Heated Rivalry” actor Hudson Williams, recently signed on as a “friend” of the house”?

Artistic director Pierpaolo Piccioli also conscripted “Euphoria” creator Sam Levinson to collaborate on the fall show environment ahead of the April 12 release of season three, continuing Balenciaga’s recent tradition of pop-culture surfing.

There was an electric atmosphere entering the vast, darkened space on the Champs-Élysées, previously an Adidas flagship now decked out in black carpeting and concert lighting. Levinson was responsible for the dozens of video monitors broadcasting California landscapes, wolves, empty bars and the faces of new “Euphoria” cast members, including Danielle Deadwyler blinking nervously – all snippets from the forthcoming season.

However, the electricity dissipated as the wait stretched beyond 40 minutes, and then Piccioli’s sophomore show never really took flight.

Eight-one models filed under a thin path of light in carefully considered, polished ensembles, most of them hinged on a statement coat, many of them with bulging backs or other features of the cocoon, founder Cristóbal Balenciaga’s most famous silhouette.

Piccioli settled on portrait collars – and other kinds of face-framing collars, including funnel necks – as the defining feature of the collection as an echo of Levinson’s unflinching portrait of Gen Z.

“Sam is able to tell stories – not judging, not criticizing, not celebrating – but just giving a point of view that is very human and very emotional,” the designer said during a preview the day before the show. “He has a very particular sensitivity to find the light in the darkness… It’s very metaphorical, given the moment we all living now.”

The show started off strongly with a series of outfits in black, the defining color of the season and of recent Balenciaga: First a voluptuous bubble-shaped leather bomber jacket with a bulging, cocoon back, then a sculptural pea coat with a collar rising like a calla lily; then an imposing officer coat with the collar and lapels standing up and away from slightly hunched shoulders.

Interspersed between the statement coats were truly terrific draped jersey dresses, marvels of construction with minimal seams, and some cool, high-waisted jeans.

There were some eye-catching accessories, including softer, rumpled versions of the Hourglass bag and studded, off-kilter brogues, the latter the fruit of a collaboration with J.M. Weston.

This was the first time Piccioli put his menswear on the runway. It also hinged on imposing outerwear, baggier pants than the women wore, and a fair number of prints from “Euphoria” season three on coats, sweaters and fleece.

Mobbed by well-wishers and photographers after the show, Piccioli unzipped Williams’ leather jacket to show off the scene printed on his T-shirt underneath.

Now that was kinda hot.