After shuttering his Brock Collection label in 2021, feeling burned out by the relentless demand of seasonal collections, Kris Brock said he would never launch another brand again. After some down time and a few collaborations, his tie-up earlier this year with V. Chapman changed that. “I re-fell in love with why I originally got into fashion, which is to make clothes,” said the American designer at the presentation of his new label, named simply Brock, during Paris Fashion Week.

Brock quietly debuted a resort collection for the label this summer, and it was picked up by Moda Operandi, where it will launch alongside direct-to-consumer in November.

At Paris Fashion Week, he was presenting Brock’s first full collection for spring, overflowing with his familiar bohemian silhouettes but with a lower price point than his previous label, which was co-designed with Laura Vassar. The average retail price of a dress in the new collection, for instance, is around $725.

Brock played on proportion and volume, layering barely-there lingerie pieces with ruffled skirts and lavishes of lace. For his floral prints, he took inspiration from an archival wallpaper collection, lending a faded vintage charm to the line-up. Flouncy puffball skirts, long at the back and short at the front, were done in crisp poplin or heavier stretch jacquard.

Tie details were intended to allow the wearer to play with styling. Inner corsetry in dresses lent structure while being detached at the back, for instance, allowing their straps to fall nonchalantly off the shoulder. A mini-cape top in lace could be worn in a range of ways.

Workwear jackets in soft pastel shades and stylishly cut ecru jeans, meanwhile, added a youthful touch and nodded to the designer’s Texan roots. “There this balance of an ultra-feminine side meeting this more rural element,” said Brock.

He described the collection as more youthful than his previous outings. “Naturally, there’s some crossover and [a similar] design aesthetic, just because that’s where my DNA is,” said Brock. “This as a little more sexy, flirty, fun, but still maintaining that sophistication.”