Footwear is firmly back in the fashion spotlight, and shoe designers at Milan Fashion Week unveiled collections that reflected renewed optimism in the market.

Bright colors, innovative materials and bold embellishments defined the season’s must-have styles. But unlike the post-pandemic party shoe craze, many brands also kept versatility and comfort at the forefront, showing a range of heel heights and flats.

One thing is for sure: When it comes to craftsmanship, there’s no place like Italy. Read on for a look inside 21 top footwear presentations.

How does Jimmy Choo conduct a character study? The 30-year-old British brand delved into all the different personalities and identities of its women, creating life-like gold statues to showcase its new collection in an environment that was designed to be simultaneously historic and modern, unanchored by time or locale. “We really wanted to pay attention to how shoes and bags are incorporated into fashion,” said creative director Sandra Choi. “Everybody wears things differently, even something as classic as a suit.”

The collection standouts included a classic mule that was decked out with a dappled pattern treatment from an archival elaphê dotted snakeskin. Giving it some extra oomph was a statement brooch in turquoise resin beads and crystal across the vamp. “I love the fact that the shoes are simple but also punchy. The delicate detail we pay attention to when we’re designing our product is everything,” Choi said.

A similar motif showed up on a slingback with its low heel and black snubbed toe. A graphic loafer, in black and white, was fashioned in both a flat and block heel, with contrasting glossy, crinkled patent naplak leather. Other highlights: A décolleté satin pump embellished with ruby red and macaron pink petals; the Bing style reimagined as a mary jane in masculine fabrications like oxblood napa and gray flannel. Interesting trompe-l’oeil denim prints on fine leather showed up on lace-ups and slingbacks, and Choi also played with proportions of the Drop heel, which has quickly become a house signature. The Cinch bag family evolved with the addition of a handy top handle.

Gianvito Rossi has one wish for all the women who have worn his luxury footwear creations during the past two decades. “I want to ask them how they feel. It’s very important that my shoes represent good memories,” the designer said at his packed 20th anniversary celebration on Thursday night at Palazzo Serbelloni in Milan. The evening was a fitting toast to the shoe maestro, who celebrated his past, present and future alongside the Milan Fashion Week crowd and influential actresses and models, including Naomi Watts. “She’s feminine, but with a very strong personality,” Rossi said of Watts. “And I think that’s maybe how my shoes are.”

For spring 2027, Rossi — who’s always been known for his pure lines and elegant proportions — showed a joyful lineup of updated essentials. Satin, crystals, fringes and intricate embroidery injected new interest into his sculptural designs. Bright hues, including fuchsia, aquamarine and Cipria pink, made the shoes a main character during the evening’s celebration.

“This heel is a killer!” In his element, Giuseppe Zanotti took his signature jewelry shoes to the next level this season, including an updated version of an embellished gold leather sandal he crafted three decades ago. (The original was worn by Madonna.) The spring 2027 style, the centerpiece of the new Intriigo Killer family, features metal net and crystals that seamlessly move on the foot. “The accessories are from my archive. They’re 30 years old, but still wonderful. This sandal is soft and sophisticated for evening, but also for day,” he said. “It’s perfect for the gym, for exercise. It’s so different than sneakers. I think it’s much better,” he quipped.

Material play and experimentation are passions of the veteran designer, who only seems to get more energized with each passing season. Across the collection, he paired exotic leathers, refined satins and napa with unexpected details, like precious jewels and metallic inserts, adding elegance to his signature pointed open-toe designs.

For Aquazzura founder and creative director Edgardo Osorio, it always starts with emotional product. The designer’s L’Isola collection for spring, full of color and unexpected details, was inspired by David LaChapelle’s work, shot in Hawaii. “I met him in his studio in Los Angeles, and I was captivated by the vibrant colors, playfulness, sensuality and lush vegetation exploding from his photographs. I wanted to capture and convey those same emotions,” Osorio said.

The designer’s most theatrical designs take cues from the evocative Hawaii landscape — think cactus blooms, birds of paradise and tropical flowers. Long raffia fringes characterize the “Hula Girl” wedge and bucket bag, recalling the traditional skirts of Hawaiian designers. A playful series of crudité sandals, mules and tote bags are fashioned in celery green raffia and adorned with miniature vegetable details, like turnips, tomatoes and carrots. The color palette captures the full spectrum of an island escape, from cactus green, tropical blue and sea breeze to warmer tones evoking the sunset.

What a week. Hot on the heels of Paris Texas’ Milan store opening and the “Queen of Hearts” campaign splashed around the city, brand founder Annamaria Brivio hosted her first official fashion week presentation, centered on vibrant colors and scuptural silhouettes. The Lidia, the label’s signature style, continually evolves, this time in four statement interpretations. On one version, exotic feathers blossomed like tropical flowers on the satin thong mule, in arresting colors like electric blue. The sensual wedge, encrusted in colored crystals, made a notable appearance. The new evening proposition centered on the distinctive cork wedge with a galvanized gold finish. The Fanny, day-to-night style with a pyramidal heel, evolved through maxi straps that wind around the ankle. And as thong sandals continue to dominate, a flat version made its debut this season. Of course, Brivio didn’t forget her Texas side — three key boots were reimagined for the season. Texas, the designer’s dog, made an appearance at the presentation too.

Paul Andrew pulled double duty during fashion week, first debuting his new collaboration with Cuoio di Toscana, the Italian sole leather specialist, on Wednesday at Antonioli. On Friday, he unveiled his own spring collection, inspired by the work of Paul Evans, the influential American furniture designer and studio craft artist. A high-heeled sandal with a pointed-toe shape and asymmetric mule upper was set on a sculptural, faceted prism heel that evoked one of Evans’ “extraordinary credenza pieces,” according to Andrew. A statement pump was hand-embroidered in yellow and black sequins, bugle beads and caviar beads with touches of gold. The heel is constructed from panels of Murano glass, hand blown in Venice and assembled around a transparent column structure. Sustainably was top of mind in the designer’s PVC pump with plexiglass heel. A low wedge sandal combined twisted raffia rope with strips of soft napa leather. Lower heels have continued to resonate for the designer, who showed kitten-heel thong sandals with padded cotton-canvas insoles and minimal black calfskin uppers.

Santoni’s savoir-faire was on full display during the brand’s immersive presentation that took attendees behind the scenes of its artisanal process. The brand continues to find endless inspiration in Italy’s Marche, its home. The region’s poppies played a starring role in the new collection, dressing up Santoni’s relaxed Papavero suede loafer. Reimagined as sculptural, 3D flowers, each ornament is constructed, petal by petal, in leather or suede. Artisans demonstrated the meticulous handwork on site. Personalization has become a key proposition for the brand, which also showed off its interchangeable tassels that allow one shoe to be continually reinterpreted. First introduced for the Carla loafer, the concept has now been extended to sandals and slides. Intricately crafted leather knots were the focus of the Odette series, which spanned mules, sandals and sabots. The brand also showed off an expanded collection of silk scarves. “I believe in objects that express beauty, culture and the heart of manufacturing in a beautiful way,” said executive chairman Giuseppe Santoni. “In fashion, you have many elements…and [success] depends on the combination of these elements.”

In one of the season’s most creative presentations, Casadei took guests to Marrakech for the day — from the riad to the souk. That was just the starting point for Cesare Casadei’s collection. The creative director likened his process this season to the idea of a mosaic, a creative method that creates large works from a series of smaller parts. “We can see them in the Moroccan city, but also in Constantinople and Ravenna. I used these considerations to develop the shapes, volumes and colors of a collection that embodies diversity in the form of shoes,” he said.

This melting pot approach came to the life in the collection, which centered on sexy sandals and eye-catching details, from bows to jewelry. One sandal drew on Eastern techniques used to create an origami bow. Another was characterized by its satin obi, formed by overlapping folded ribbons. A large conical knot with pavé rhinestones garnered attention as a statement embellishment. The brand, which always likes to emphasize its tech prowess, also revealed its first 3D-printed flat sandal.

One of René Caovilla’s most iconic styles got a glam new update. The new Chandelier sandal, characterized by its serpent-spiral shape, is hand embroidered with more than 170 swaying drop beads made from multifaceted or transparent crystals. It takes two full days of work, or 200 precise steps, for Caovilla’s artisans to craft the look, made in silk satin with a 105mm heel.

As it undergoes another transformation effort, Sergio Rossi once again drew inspiration from the brand’s heyday in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Recognizable shapes and clean silhouettes were fashioned in calfskin, napa and suede — with python and lizard prints, mirror leather, crepe satin and mesh playing up contrasting textures. The classic pump evolved with a more elongated and tapered toe, while an origami effect emphasized the angular accents on sandals. Cage and peep-toe styles were also reinterpreted.

Aleví Milano’s jewelry shoes had a very personal origin. Cofounder Valentina Micchetti designed a statement ring with one of her marquise-cut diamonds, and the stone’s elongated shape inspired the embellishment of the season, featured across pumps, sandals, mules and flats. In another series called “Alter Ego,” the brand played with the idea of duality, where one orange pump was paired with a fuchsia pump and a white peep-toe mule met its match with a gold one. The brand’s creativity extended to special wedding and Valentine’s Day capsules, with the goal of keeping its customer engaged all year long.

With a focus on craftsmanship, comfort and creating a distinct identity, Costume National founder Ennio Capasa believes his new namesake footwear venture, Capasa, can fill a void in the market. “There are too many products that look the same, and they’re too expensive,” he said. “Fashion has become about money, money, money. The big designers lose their identity and they just work for the brand.”

For his sophomore collection, Capasa — whose leathers are hand beaded before the shoes are assembled — set out to bridge design and comfort. He paid careful attention to foot support, balance and stability across the women’s collection. For example, slightly raised toes facilitate movement. Finishes are made with rare waxes, applied in the final stages of production to add light, depth, richness and a unique patina. The designer also revealed his first men’s collection.

Functional footwear is paramount for Pollini, and this season, soft materials and versatile looks were key. A heeled pump, for example, was enhanced with a cushioned insole. Ballet styles, including the ballet sneaker silhouette, took center stage, as did sandals, which had 3D flowers in suede and calfskin, raw-cut finishes and handcrafted details. The classic double-strap and thong sandals reinterpreted menswear codes. But there were hints of evening too, with gold and black laser-cut stiletto heels. Platform sandals also made a return.

AGL doubled down on craftsmanship and unveiled a collection that celebrated the female artisans at its factory in Italy’s Le Marche region. Key styles showcased the brand’s feminine meets rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic — like sandals embellished with a 3D flower crafted in washed suede that was juxtaposed with a semi-spherical decoration made of safety pins. It evoked the feeling of a pin cushion, a tribute to the brand’s seamstresses. Another standout was a square-toe sneakerina, fashioned in gold leather with a natural rubber sole and topped off with a maxi fabric bow. “It’s very comfortable, like clothing for the feet,” said Vera Giusti, one of the three sisters at the center of the brand.

When model Jessica Miller, already a fan of vegan luxury shoe label Aera, met its founder and chief executive officer Tina Bhojwani, it didn’t take long for the two women to dream up a big idea: a collaboration that would take the vegan footwear brand to the new heights, literally. The result? Aera’s highest heel ever, a sculptural sandal in green, cranberry and black, with a 105mm heel. “This is my first shoe design. It’s been a longtime dream coming — to have a super sexy vegan heel, sustainably made with materials all locally sourced here in Italy,” Miller said during a fashion week presentation at Voena gallery, where the shoes were displayed alongside an exhibition of work by the late Italian artist Carol Ramaa and Rick Owens furniture. “I’ve been wearing these for two hours. They are super comfortable and I feel very confident.” After walking in Vogue World in Milan, Miller, the wife of Metallic drummer Lars Ulrich, will hit the runway during Paris Fashion Week. And Bhojwani hinted at more collaborative Aera designs to come.

Geox’s footwear formula is centered around five key words — technology, breathability, flexibility, lightness and comfort. The brand’s sneaker lineup was once again decked out with a range of features: the “NX-Fusion” system features an ultra-light midsole based on a special materials technique that maximizes high-pressure carbon dioxide to create micro-bubbles. The “0 Shock System” was designed with 3D elastic spheres built into the heel, the area of the foot most prone to stress when walking. Dressier styles like the ballet flat range were also enhanced with new comfort elements, like the brand’s signature “Respira” sole technology. A high-performance knit fabric, in beige and black, was used on classic court shoes.

Steps away from its recently opened Milan flagship, high-end Italian brand Doucal’s made a statement with an inaugural women’s fashion week outing, held at the historic Via Gesu 5 address. Amid the ongoing loafer craze, the brand, best known for its men’s offering, is ready to court more women with its collection of comfortable classics. The versatile Megan loafer, fashioned for spring in a variety of eye-catching blue hues to match the presentation, was the best example of the brand’s focus on comfort, a formula it plans to stick with for the long-term. “This isn’t just a moment,” said CEO Gianni Giannini.

Now in the home stretch of its 70th anniversary year, Rodo played up craftsmanship and attention to detail with its wicker designs — this time with a twist. Intricate leather weaves reinterpreted the brand’s classic bags and shoes, while denim, crystal embroidery and ostrich-effect materials added pizzazz to the lineup. Jewel-case clutches, basket bags, vanity cases and new cylindrical bag silhouettes were displayed alongside kitten heels, pumps and sandals designed for a stroll along the Mediterranean.

Flower Mountain always views Milan Fashion Week as an opportunity to introduce special projects that take it into new territory. This time around, the brand tapped into its Japanese roots with the unveiling of a new capsule with Norbit by Hiroshi Nozawa. The pair explored the intersection of outdoor, functionality and contemporary design, tapping into Norbit’s emphasis on tactile textures, neutral tones and details. The tie-up included two footwear models: One reimagined the hiking boot, drawing on its structure and stability. But its versatility makes it fit for the city, too. The second style — a sneaker — was more relaxed, prioritizing comfort and movement. The collection also extended to apparel, with a selection of jackets and trousers.

How do you make tried-and-true styles feel fresh again? Fratelli Rossetti found one solution for spring, with a new technique called Aliseo, which debuted at the brand’s presentation at Eden Skyhouse. All the styles were characterized by original cutouts that travel across the upper to reveal the contrasting lining. In the case of the brand’s best-known look, the Brera loafer, the cutouts run along the base of the upper, adding a sophisticated detail and a touch of contemporary sensibility. A slip-on featuring a strap and two sandals also got the Aliseo treatment.

After opening its renovated Via Sant’Andrea boutique this month, Le Silla held its spring presentation there, putting the focus on both the store and the shoes. Music came into play too, with the colors of the collection named after different genres, like “jazz” acqua and “funky” acid green. The brand’s stiletto pump, which continues to gain traction, evolved through a deep cut and pronounced toe profile. Glossy black and red leather, and a printed satin, made another series of pumps feel fresh. Crystal embellishments were again prominent on many styles. While the brand is known for its sky-high styles, it’s also exploring more lower heels and flats.