Derek Lam, the founder of Derek Lam 10 Crosby, is returning to the brand as creative director, marking a new chapter for the New York-based label following its acquisition by NYC Alliance in May.

Lam will lead the creative direction of Derek Lam 10 Crosby as the brand prepares to relaunch under its new parent company.

“From the beginning, we had a very clear vision for Derek Lam 10 Crosby’s future. Bringing Derek back was central to that vision. No one understands the brand’s heritage and design philosophy better than its founder. Derek’s leadership will ensure the brand evolves with authenticity, honoring its original DNA while creating products that reflect how people live today. We are excited to partner with Derek as we build the next chapter of Derek Lam 10 Crosby together,” said Wen Huang, head of branding and marketing at NYC Alliance.

Public Clothing retains the Derek Lam brand, which continues to be designed by creative director Robert Rodriguez.

As creative director, Lam will bring his original vision for Derek Lam 10 Crosby into the evolving contemporary fashion landscape. The appointment comes as NYC Alliance looks to strategically expand Derek Lam 10 Crosby through its global distribution network, operational expertise and omnichannel capabilities. Under the new ownership, the brand will have the opportunity to broaden its product offering, reach new channels and enter new markets, while maintaining its design integrity and New York point of view.

“It’s a pleasure to return to Derek Lam 10 Crosby,” said Lam. “I’m excited to work with the team at NYC Alliance as the creative director, and I am looking forward to building on the design philosophy of Derek Lam 10 Crosby while bringing a fresh perspective to the brand’s next chapter.” The new creative direction will be introduced for fall 2027 selling.

Lam told WWD that he moved full-time to Paris about three years ago after he left Derek Lam 10 Crosby. He became a creative director at Câllas Milano, which was launched in 2020 by business partners Jan-Hendrik Schlottmann (Lam’s husband) and Marco Panzeri, chief executive officer of Italian manufacturer Cieffe. Lam said he will continue consulting for the brand as creative director.

When asked what influenced his decision to return, he said, “It was just a really interesting reach-out, and I thought there was something terrific about them reaching out and trying to bring what has been done and what I could bring new to starting again.”

Lam said he plans to go back and forth between Paris and New York. “For now, I’m going to just be there like a week or so [in October] and then obviously when things develop, [we’ll figure out] the timing they need.”

Lam said the label will stay contemporary and will be wholesaled at department and specialty stores. He said he likes to be close to a client who is more contemporary and has a playfulness and relaxed way about how she wants to dress and what she wants to wear.

Asked why he left his label three years ago, he said, “It was just my decision that I wanted a little bit of change, and so obviously, it was a big change moving to Paris. It just made sense at that moment to take a break.”

Lam said he was excited about NYC Alliance because they’re a vertical company and they’re eager to enter the contemporary market. “They have other brands, of course, so they are very set up to grow and develop quickly, so it’s nice to be a part of that situation,” said Lam.

A native of San Francisco, Lam studied fashion at Parsons School of Design before working at Michael Kors. He launched his namesake brand in 2003 alongside Schlottmann, his business partner and husband. Lam was the runner-up for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2005 and won CFDA’s Emerging Designer Award the same year.

In 2019, Lam closed his original luxury line, Derek Lam Collection, to focus on his contemporary line, Derek Lam 10 Crosby. He sold Derek Lam 10 Crosby to the Public Clothing Co. in January 2020 and served as its chief creative officer. He left that business in 2023. Public Clothing Co. sold Derek Lam 10 Crosby to NYC Alliance in May 2026.

Lam came up in the early 2000s alongside a generation of New York labels that included Proenza Schouler, Jason Wu, Thakoon, and Phillip Lim. He built his business on sportswear, tailoring and outerwear, along with leather and fur. He was also creative director of Tod’s ready-to-wear from 2005 to 2010.

In addition to Derek Lam 10 Crosby, NYC Alliance owns such brands as 525 America and 89th and Madison, and its licensed businesses include Juicy Couture and Frye.

Earlier this month, Derek Lam 10 Crosby revealed a collaboration with sister brand 525 America for a limited-edition collaboration.