After the sudden exit of creative director Marco De Vincenzo earlier this year, the Etro in-house design team is now spearheading the brand and carrying on its heritage. After a pre-collection that focused on restating the house pillars, the team embraced a lighter approach to convey Etro’s ethos.

Titled “Halo,” the spring 2027 collection intended the house codes as a floating, airy presence informing different moments in a woman’s day, with the lineup opening in powdery-hued looks for the morning and transitioning to darker, aubergine tones as it progressed toward nighttime.

All the familiar features linked to the brand were there, from the ‘70s boho spirit apparent in diaphanous frilled dresses to the ubiquitous paisley motif that was also treated with a soft, faded touch in pieces spanning from printed caftans to nylon windbreakers, passing through the best iterations in suede or denim blousons reinterpreting the pattern via tonal patches.

In between, crocheted frocks, ruffled shirts, jacquard pants, lingerie-inspired tops and slip dresses were integrated in a bid to express how Etro-ness can hover over a woman’s wardrobe and take multiple forms.

Despite the studied color palette and soothing reassurance of the brand’s signatures, in its airiness the collection lacked cohesiveness and a bit of fashion substance. Etro’s history and globetrotting DNA are testament to how the brand can fit everywhere, as if naturally equipped with a unique creative compass. All it takes now is the right person to read it.