
Comfort, and joy.
That sums up Burberry’s spring collection, which was a collaboration between Daniel Lee and the legendary British textile designer Celia Birtwell. She shared her vintage happy-face designs, and created a whole new bouquet of botanical patterns, which Lee scattered across this bright, buzzy collection.
Skirts and dresses, trenches, coats and even shoes were bursting with mimosas, blueberries, rosebuds, vines and violets done as 3D embroideries on pencil skirts; ditsy prints on trenches, or blurry, impressionistic patterns on coats. Birtwell’s kooky “Halloween” faces came on knits and in the shape of little medallions dangling from coats and kitten heels.
Lee also took the colors of the English garden — lavender and burgundy — and worked them into diaphanous silk embroidered trenches. Or were they dresses? They had an ethereal quality, and probably wouldn’t be great in the rain, but boy did they look good.
More robust trenches were made from silk faille and taffeta and had a lived-in feel, complete with wrinkles and folds. Some had soft pouf skirts, others came with braided epaulets that laid flat on the shoulder and arm, as if they’d been drawn or stitched on, like patches. “It’s an emotional thing. The imperfections ultimately make things feel more human,” said the designer.
Lee tapped Birtwell because he wanted to do something special for Burberry’s 170th anniversary. And once he met her, he knew she was the one. “I’ve never really collaborated with someone on a show before — I think it’s a difficult thing. But everybody loves Celia. She’s the epitome of British fashion. Her prints feel timeless, and she was also really inspired by Burberry’s check. She wanted to interpret it, take it into her world,” he said.
Birtwell’s vibrant, hand-drawn chunky checks came on coats, bags and skirts, and added a graphic, Pop Art dimension to the house’s signature design.
Birtwell, who sat front row at the show watching her designs move down the catwalk, said she was “very thrilled that Daniel asked me, because it’s very good for my brain to do different things. It was fun to work with them, and a challenge for me in a very different way,” said the 85-year-old Birtwell, who has a busy few months ahead.
She is the subject of the show, “Ossie Clark + Celia Birtwell,” at London’s Design Museum, which opens on Oct. 2 and runs until next April. Clark’s designs coupled with her romantic, playful prints helped shape 1960s and early 1970s British fashion and now, following Burberry’s show at the Chelsea College of Arts, they’ll touch a whole new generation.








