For Harris Reed, this was a season to take stock and tune into his customer, her lifestyle and desires. Having left his creative director post at Nina Ricci earlier this year, he’s now hyper-focused on his signature line, and is planning to open a salon in Hatton Garden, east London, so he can dress those customers in a place that’s more comfortable than his busy, overcrowded studio.

Reed, whose long hair floats behind him like a copper veil and whose every finger is adorned with jewels, took inspiration from queens and goddesses with an all-white collection that was heavy on drama, and corsetry. The tall pouf shoulders and stiff jacquard corsets recalled Queen Elizabeth I and even Queen Victoria, while a big cage skirt with a sweep of fabric at the side was more Marie Antoinette.

Some looks took flight as in a corset top with feathery wings sprouting from either side, while others recalled classical Greek sculpture. Ashley Graham opened the show in a curve-hugging corset and long semi-sheer skirt, and joined other models who were draped in lace and folds of opaque fabric. For Reed, it was a restrained outing, but still with the high impact his clients crave.

“Coming off the back of Paris after four years, I had time to go back into my own brand and really see what my customer wanted and to look back at the things that people were buying, and that ring true to me – the corsetry and the Victoriana sleeves. I really wanted to strip it back to ’50 shades of white’ and also explore our own fabrications, custom jacquard, embroidery and color,” said Reed.

And in case there was any doubt, his plan is to double down on the big flourishes. “People come to London because they think of [John] Galliano, [Alexander] McQueen, they think of [Vivienne] Westwood. London is a place where people want to buy theatrical pieces. I think kind of being a bit more theatrical has saved me,” said the designer, who loves the drama just as much as his customers.