The boys and girls Aaron Esh talked about wanting to dress for seasons finally came to life in Camden’s Electric Ballroom. The iconic music venue was a pitch-perfect stage for his polished, sharply drawn characters – young, hungry, slightly vain, and more interested in self-mythology than fitting in.

Esh’s spring 2027 proposition was built on clothes that refuse to disappear into the background, sharp silhouettes zhuzhed up with aggressive visual elements: touches of “vomit” pink or aqua blue, plus micro-polka dots that he found “uncomfortable” to look at, he told WWD in a preview.

On the runway, that discomfort read as a power move. These are clothes that command attention and hand it straight to whoever is wearing them.

What surprised was how well they were made for a four-year-old label. With resources he is now able to access via AllSaints, where he is the chief creative officer, he turned out fluid, unlined trenches and safari coats that moved with a louche ease but were luxuriously finished. Esh was also proud of a couture-level coat, featuring organza that’s been cut into strips, hand-dyed, brushed and then re-embroidered as little petals.

A contemporary element that set the collection apart from pure ’90s nostalgia was Esh’s On collaboration, quietly seeded in the lineup as sleek sneakers based on the Cloudrunner model. Today’s kids might want to look as cool as their forebears, but say “no thank you” to blisters.