Petra Fagerström’s first London runway outing offered a polished and coherent proposition that showed why her vision has already taken her to this year’s LVMH Prize final round.

The Central Saint Martins alum’s spring 2027 collection, titled “Swedish Summer,” delivered intricate, either-or hybrids that could live comfortably on the shop floor.

Fagerström said she has a clear idea of the kind of woman she is designing for and her needs, hence the more grounded-in-reality approach to an aesthetic that began as a commentary on AI’s role in fashion.

“I want to work around the duality of a woman, not resolving or suppressing it but finding a way to let these contradictions coexist in the same garment and the same woman,” she said.

That exploration meant “well-behaved” silhouettes with a rebellious undercurrent. She reworked ’40s–’50s couture and conservative archetypes with unexpected materials or cuts for a visually deceptive, glitching effect. A Bar jacket-like look, for example, was reimagined in fitted leather, while a trench coat was cut to stay permanently open, its canvas shell splitting to reveal a leather underlayer embroidered with flowers.

She pushed that idea further with hand-stitched, lenticular pleats that allowed garments to hold two images at once. In one standout dress, what first read as a tweed skirt suit flickered into lace and lingerie in motion, and in another, lingerie printed on the surface dissolved to reveal a natural landscape beneath.

Fagerström also used the show to introduce her first bag, developed with London-based designer Eden Tan, extending her articulate double-front language into leather goods that looked ready to become a key business pillar.