Ulla Johnson firmly grounded her spring show in the city, staging her runway down the long brick walkway under the Brooklyn Bridge overpass at Gotham Park.

“There’s so much impermanence to what happens in these 15 minutes, and as we grow, develop and think about what we stand for, having a lasting mark and bringing beauty that lives past the moment is incredibly important to us,” Johnson said. Following the show, her brand is working to replant 750 native plants and 12 trees into the space and in other surrounding sites.

Her collection played into the idea of lived experiences, the performance of getting dressed or interacting with passersby in the city streets or urban greenspaces. This came through a pretty lineup that actually hit on most of the trends emerging at New York Fashion Week, including fringe, sheer lingerie styles, streamers and scarf details, and unique color combinations — but here with Johnson’s signature feminine twists.

Each of her styles, spanning from double moulinet Italian tailoring with breezy separates to airy yet textural dresses and “hyper overwash” jeans, had a softer hand, and came in a soft pastel palette, inspired by urban pastoral. They were paired in alluring color combinations against transparent layers in fish net, sheer organza and embroidered lace.

Movement was also key, Johnson noted. Ruffled floral frocks, jersey styles with intricate draping or internal horsehair bounced, and fringed layers, including her show-closing white gown, balloon pants and maxiskirt, had an ease as they swished and bounced down the runway. Hand-painted florals added thoughtful femininity to trenchcoats — some of her outerwear was noted to be in collaboration with Macintosh. Another was with Balios for umbrellas — both were an homage to heritage British brands following the opening of her London flagship.