
Welcome to Fashion’s Finest Stays, a travel series where we lend our fashion-editor POV to the world of hospitality. Here, we’ll give you exclusive insider access to the world’s most renowned hotels and resorts, uncovering every detail you’d ever want to know before you book.
When planning a honeymoon, most newlyweds start big picture with a loose idea of cities they want to visit and activities they want to explore. Beach or mountains? Adventurous itinerary or flat-out relaxation? I had a hotel—a plush, extravagant “Marie Antoinette would geek out over this” hotel. I didn’t know much about the surrounding area (it would be my first time in the South of France), but I’d been obsessing over the historic cliffside palace ever since I met Natacha Bonjout, French pharmacist and cosmetic chemist, for lunch to discuss her award-winning skincare brand. I told her I had recently gotten married and was hoping to organize a summer honeymoon, and she immediately responded with, “You have to stay here.” She pulled up her Instagram, and there it was: Airelles Gordes, La Bastide—the elegant, extremely intimate 16th-century maison in all its glory. When I later mentioned it to a travel advisor, she unwaveringly agreed, calling it “heaven on Earth” and “one of the best hotels in all of France.” And just like that, we were honeymooning in Provence.
To be clear, Airelles isn’t the type of hotel you book on a whim unless you’re some sort of heiress or perhaps a cast member on The White Lotus. (Its Saint-Tropez property, Château de La Messardière, is a confirmed location for season 4.) It’s top of the line in terms of luxury, hence why it took a special milestone like my honeymoon to justify the splurge. A month later, however, I don’t regret it one bit. Here’s every reason why it’s worth booking and why I’m already dreaming of the day I can go back.
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Gordes is known as one of the most beautiful villages in the Luberon, and at its top rests the five-star Airelles. It’s perhaps more accurate to say that the property is wedged into the cliffs themselves. The entrance is street level, but the inside is a vertical labyrinth of stone buildings, terrace gardens, and winding staircases. What was once a private seigneurial manor in the 16th century, the space underwent a full restoration in 2015 with the help of 150 local artisans to honor its rich history. At the helm of said project was architect and interior designer Christophe Tollemer, who also sourced authentic antique furniture and over 2000 pieces of period artwork. As a result, no two rooms are the same in design.
There are 40 rooms and suites in the entire hotel with views over the village or the Luberon valley. I stayed in the Deluxe Village Bedroom, which is technically on the lower tier in terms of price (I’d rather spend more of my budget on dining and excursions) yet is still one of the most high-end spaces I’ve ever slept in. Despite its authentic woodwork and rare antiques, like an 18th-century writing desk, it comes with all the modern fixings of a luxury hotel, including a marble-finished bathroom, a Dyson hair dryer, Jardins Baulieu toiletries, and a fully stocked and complimentary minibar.
As soon as you set foot into the airy lobby, you’re treated like royalty—quite fitting for one of the 33 hotels in the region awarded Palace status by the French government. The staff, dressed to the nines in period-style uniforms, somehow knows exactly what you need before you even know you need it, be it a fresh cocktail, garment press, or list of recommendations for exploring nearby villages. A tote bag, a straw hat, and custom-embroidered pajamas were waiting for my husband and me in our room upon check-in, and each night, we returned to find surprise gifts, including a sunglasses case, a toiletry bag, and an eye mask.
Upon checkout, a staff member brought us out to the terrace for a quick Polaroid photo to look back on (as if I could ever forget such opulence) and escorted us to our rental car, where chilled bottles of water, Ladurée macarons, and personalized luggage tags were resting on the front console. Small touches like these set Airelles apart from other five-star stays. The experience makes you feel like a noble yet completely at home.
You’ll find three pools on the property: a dedicated kids’ pool, an indoor pool at the spa, and the iconic terrace pool situated on the lush hilltop gardens overlooking the Luberon. The latter is probably the most peaceful place I’ve ever lounged. All you can hear is the gentle lapping of water, the rustling of olive trees overhead, and the occasional server offering you a glass of rosé. After visiting the lavender fields, shopping at local markets, or passing through nearby villages, it’s the only place you’ll want to be.
A couple of floors down from the pool, you’ll reach the tranquil underground spa—aka 17,000 square feet of bliss. Meant to resemble the Sénanque Abbey (which is just 20 minutes away), the space is equipped with stone archways, vaulted ceilings, and soft, serene candlelight. Guests are permitted to take advantage of the indoor pool, hammam, and sauna at any time, but I highly recommend booking a treatment if your schedule allows. My husband and I received a romantic couple’s massage, which included a few minutes of Guerlain sheet-mask pampering and culminated in champagne and macarons on a private outdoor terrace. Swoon. The spa also offers a full collection of Guerlain’s highly coveted fragrances, such as the viral $660 Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21.
Guerlain
Abeille Royale Honey Cataplasm Masks
GUERLAIN
L’Art & La Matière Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21
Talk about dinner with a view! I dined at two of the hotel’s on-property restaurants, La Table de La Bastide and Clover Gordes by multi-Michelin-starred chef Jean-François Piège, both of which boast sweeping views of the Luberon. (Fun fact: Clover is where Emily and Gabriel go to lunch during season 3 of Emily in Paris.) Sunset dining will never be the same for me moving forward; there’s nothing like sharing a plate of glossy heirloom tomatoes as the sun drenches the valley below in pink and gold.
Breakfast, however, deserves its own moment to shine. Twist my arm, and I’d tell you that the complimentary morning meals at Airelles Gordes were my favorite of the entire trip. Again, there’s not a bad seat in the house thanks to the breathtaking scenery on the outdoor terrace, but the spread itself is that of a royal banquet. Think towering pastry stands, charcuterie boards galore, fresh juices, and every piece of seasonal fruit you can imagine. And if you’re still feeling peckish, there’s a full à la carte menu that’s also free of charge, with customizable omelettes, collagen smoothies, and other morning delights. My advice? Get the French toast every single day.
My trip landed smack-dab in the middle of a record heat wave, so breathable fabrics (e.g., lots of cotton and linen) and layers were key. A few silk scarves were also a must since there are so many ways to wear them (as a strapless shirt, a hair scarf, a bag accessory, etc.), which ultimately means more room in my suitcase for French market treasures and beauty products. For shoes, I wore my black Repetto Camille Flats nearly every single day of the trip, as they effortlessly suit every outfit while being some of the most comfortable footwear I own. Of course, in the South of France, a straw bag was nonnegotiable. The one I brought is sadly no longer available at Jenni Kayne, but the brand has a similar bucket silhouette in a rich chocolate that I’m dying to get my hands on—perhaps in time for my next Provence getaway.
Hermès
Champ de Courses a Chantilly
Repetto
Camille Ballet Flats
Prada Beauty
Touch Cream-to-Powder Blush
Jenni Kayne
Riviera Raffia Bucket Bag
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