As a summer baby who’s obsessive about perfume, I’ve always found it strange that I’m not drawn to the scents we typically associate with the season. When you picture the twinkling seas of the Côte d’Azur or the rugged greenery of Tuscany, you likely imagine spritzing yourself with sweet fruits or sun-soaked florals. But those fragrances rarely capture the complexity of the landscapes that inspire them.

Orange rind, lemon peel, fig and crushed basil aren’t just bright and juicy, they’re sharp, earthy and most importantly, bitter, and that’s where this summer’s most unexpected fragrance trend comes in.

Bitter perfumes may sound intimidating, but they’re anything but. Rather than leaving a harsh aftertaste, they lend a sophisticated edge that feels nuanced and more evocative of the hallmarks of summer. “There’s freshness through contrast rather than sweetness,” explains Almira Armstrong, founder of niche perfume brand Lumira. “They still evoke summer, but through citrus trees, sun-warmed herbs and evening aperitifs rather than tropical fruit or dessert. That makes them a more elevated and unexpected interpretation of the season and one that transitions especially well from day into evening.”