MILAN — Against a still uncertain backdrop for the textile sector, the three-day trade show Milano Unica looked to the future and put innovation at its center. The 43rd edition was titled “From Roots to the Future: Innovation in Textiles and Fashion” and set a record for the highest number of exhibitors to date.

A total of 737 exhibitors participated, including 604 across the Ideabiella, Moda In and Shirt Avenue sections. In addition to the 460 confirmed Italian exhibitors, the fair, which closed July 9, recorded a significant 15.2 percent increase in European exhibitors. On the buyers’ side, another record was achieved, with international attendance reaching nearly 50 percent of the total for the first time.

“In a context that remains challenging for the sector, seeing buyers from different markets with a concrete approach focused on collection development is an important signal,” said Simone Canclini, Milano Unica president. “It tells us that Italian textiles continue to be recognized as a strategic partner when it comes to innovation, creativity, quality and reliability.” 

“The theme chosen for this edition is already an operational plan for the sector. ‘Made in Italy’ is a continuous, day-to-day process aimed at achieving and maintaining a high standard of quality,” said Valentino Valentini, deputy minister for Enterprises and Made in Italy, during the opening conference. “Today, as we move from a product-based economy to a process-based economy, innovation combined with tradition is the key to maintaining competitiveness in an increasingly complex and rapidly changing international market.”

An analysis by Confindustria Moda’s Office of Economic and Statistical Studies showed that the sector ended 2025 below expectations for revenue and exports and that the first quarter of 2026 remains challenging. While many exhibitors highlighted the complexity of the current situation, they also noted that a stronger focus on clients and increased investment in resources have supported their businesses.

“Companies that have invested in research, sustainability, service and creative content will be the first to capture signs of recovery. Italian textiles have repeatedly demonstrated a remarkable capacity to adapt, and I believe this quality will continue to be one of its key strengths,” commented Canclini. 

Stefano Albini, president of cotton specialist Albini Group, noted that 2025 was a positive year for the company compared to the broader market. “We closed with fabric sales up 6 percent, and that was also thanks to positive steps we took on service to speed up delivery times,” he said. Regarding 2026, he said that “given the growth already seen in the first half, we expect to carry this positive trend through to yearend.”

Franco Mantero, president of silk specialist Mantero Seta, was confident that the company’s increased focus on clients and the results of projects and investments launched will lead to improved margins compared to last year. Mantero said that “2025 closed with consolidated revenue of 104 million euros, up 5 percent on 2024. We expect to close the year slightly below 2025, despite a positive start.” 

“We are investing in resources, with 22 new hires already in 2026. These resources will allow us to ramp up when the market recovers and ensure we are positioned to deliver better service to clients,” said Carlo Curti, chief executive officer of the silk fabric maker Fasac 1955. The company in 2025 reported sales of 65 million euros. 

Matteo Mantellassi, co-CEO of Manteco, described 2025 as a year of stability driven by major investments and projects that have given the company significant credibility in the market. One of these was Casa Manteco, the company’s new hub in Tuscany designed by Milan-based studio Formafantasma and unveiled in April. The executive said that this year “has gotten off to a strong start, with orders up more than 15 percent.”

Andrea Crespi, general manager at fabric specialist Eurojersey, forecast a revenue decline for 2026 due to the challenging market environment, with turnover expected to close at 65 million euros, compared to 68 million euros in 2025. However, he said that “from the second half onward, order trends are improving and we’re starting to see positive signals in terms of orders.”

“The year 2025 closed essentially in line with 2024,” said Silvana Pezzoli, executive vice president and chief commercial officer at  the Italy-based apparel division Sitip. “We have continued to invest in innovation, sustainability and the development of high-tech products, prioritizing healthy, long-term growth over chasing short-term results.”

Ercole Botto Poala, CEO of fellow mill Reda, pointed out that currency could be one of the factors behind the slowdown, with a strong euro holding back performance and penalizing European exports. He said that “2026 got off to a good start. We remained stable in 2025, even though there was an increase in prices, especially for wool.”

Alessandro Barberis Canonico, CEO of woolen mill Vitale Barberis Canonico, said the company closed 2025 with 137 million euros in revenue, up 4 percent on 2024. For 2026, he added: “It’s going well, we’re growing, we’re on the right track and we will certainly exceed last year’s revenue.”

In terms of markets, Canclini noted positive signals from France, the sector’s main market, but also from Poland, China, Vietnam and Sri Lanka. “Europe remains central, albeit with varying performances from country to country. At the same time, some areas are showing greater caution, due to weak consumption and ongoing international economic uncertainty,” he said.

In terms of trends, textile manufacturers presented their fall 2027 collections centered on material innovation, natural fibers, technical performance, and decorative research. Alongside new fabric developments, many companies highlighted sustainability initiatives and new interpretations of classic tailoring and luxury textiles.

The Albini 1876 fall 2027 collection was presented as a narrative titled “A City in Five Acts.” Structured into five distinct acts, the first act, “The Quiet Gallery,” featured piumino silk, a cotton and silk blend, and Yoga Duke cashmere, Albini 1876’s naturally stretch fabric. The latter combined cotton and cashmere enhanced by an innovative treatment that provides elasticity without the use of synthetic fibers, resulting in a warm, lightweight, and naturally comfortable hand. The color palette included luminous whites and blues. Another act, “Out of Town,” shifted toward richer and heavier constructions. It introduced “betulla,” a family of fabrics combining cotton, wool, silk, and cashmere in a range of patterns from solid colors to Prince of Wales checks. 

Botto Giuseppe displayed a celebratory capsule collection for its 150th anniversary called 360° which spotlighted the company’s vertically integrated model and three business units of spinning, weaving and jersey making. At the heart of the collection was cashmere certified by the Sustainable Fiber Alliance, translated across knitwear, woven, and jersey. In addition, for the first time the mill introduced vicuña into the collection, offered both in pure form and in blends with cashmere. The fiber has been developed in a range of constructions, from coat weights to lighter qualities for dresses and outerwear, as well as high-comfort versions achieved through the incorporation of elastane.

The Fasac collection was structured around four decorative themes. “Grid Society” drew inspiration from the college style, characterized by a palette with classic navy, bottle green and light blue. Patterns included checks, either plain or enriched with floral elements; stripes; tie-inspired motifs, and small geometric designs, complemented by buckles and jewel-like details. Fabrics such as crêpe de chine, crêpon, and delicate jacquards were paired with twills and satins. “Blossom of Nostalgia” was inspired by the tradition of lace, embroidery, and trimmings. The designs featured small floral motifs, ramage patterns, tiles, and soft patches. The color palette included golden tones, bronze, and bright hues. 

Eurojersey presented Winter Bonded, an evolution of the Sensitive Plus Bonded construction. While retaining the comfort, stretch performance, and refined structure of Sensitive fabrics, it offered enhanced thermal protection without compromising breathability, lightness, or durability. The concept behind the collection was Functional Tailored Edition. It included “New Classics,” featuring micro-geometric and floral motifs in soft shades ranging from blues to deep burgundies. “Raw Softness” explored textured fabrics, such as Velvet Rib enriched with three-dimensional textures, as well as floral and paisley-inspired designs. The color palette went from warm browns and rich burgundies, to powdery tones of blue and pink.

Loro Piana has placed some of its most precious fibers at the center of its collection, including Australis 150’s, Tasmanian 170’s, and Super 200’s. Superfine wool remained the collection’s core material, presented both in pure form and in blends with cashmere, silk, and camel hair. The brand’s signature Felts family, inspired by Shetland and crafted from blends of fine wools, cashmere, and silk, offered a range of finishes designed for a soft flannel hand for suiting fabrics and a more substantial structure for outerwear.

Mantero developed a collection titled “Ode,” featuring silks, wools, and cottons created through layered constructions: overprinted jacquards, embroidered and printed velvets, textured tweed effects, floating-effect jacquards, and brushed wools. Ground fabrics in natural colored fibers, offered in cruelty-free silk, completed the collection. In line with this approach, it introduced GOTS-certified acid dyes for traditional printing, a key part of the company’s heritage that takes on an even more prominent role in this collection.

Silkmaker Ratti selected yarn-dyed silk, tweed, and fringes as the key materials for the new season. Tweed appeared in both classic and experimental versions, with the addition of polyurethane and finishes that make it softer. Fringes were integrated directly within the fabric construction. Prints highlighted light-reflecting effects, fil coupé, and devoré. The motifs included equestrian and floral patterns, as well as designs inspired by antique engravings, with front-and-back printing on the same pattern. The color palette ranged from deep green and teal blue to rust, purple, black, ivory, and powder pink. For accessories, Ratti used silk, lamé, wool, and precious yarns with double-face constructions and weave variations to give both structure and lightness.

Manteco introduced several innovations at the fair. One of them was the fiber MCashmere, developed to preserve and extend the lifecycle of the cashmere fibers to safeguard biodiversity. Thanks to the research in partnership with the CIRAIG (a center of expertise) university consortium, a global study has scientifically proven that MCashmere reduces potential biodiversity loss by 686 times and it has already reached full industrial production.

Furthering this commitment, Manteco has signed an exclusive partnership with Safe (a hub of circular economy consortia). This strategic agreement aims to promote the recovery and recycling of both pre- and post-consumer wool and cashmere from leading luxury brands, all within a fully traceable, Made in Italy supply chain. Among the new fiber developments was also ReviWool Touch, the latest evolution of ReviWool, Manteco’s proprietary low-impact virgin wool. It stood out for its softness, achieved through a selection of premium fibers with a fineness comparable to cashmere. 

On the product front, Manteco introduced Tēpo, a technical fleece developed with wools that merges performance, comfort, and circularity. Following the acquisition of Casentino Lane in 2023, Manteco has revived the authentic Panno Casentino, a heavy-duty Tuscan wool fabric, returning its production to its historical birthplace. This initiative features both the original Panno Casentino and a selection of innovative Manteco fabrics reinterpreted with the signature Casentino curled finish. 

The fall 2027 collection from Vitale Barberis Canonico drew inspiration from a chalet. Among the new fabric offerings were Super 180’s wool and cashmere, including Intrepid cashmere. More defined and structured, Intrepid included suit flannel as well as solid and patterned options for jackets. As for Cashmere Groove, the jacketing proposals ranged from silk and cashmere blends to high-content versions with 94 percent noble fiber, up to pure 100 percent cashmere at 270 g/m.

In its new collection, Reda included Passport, made from 100 percent Super 110’s merino wool, a travel fabric that allows for contemporary mobility. The fabric is intended for suits and trousers that are both comfortable and practical, with its natural stretch and high crease-recovery performance. The Reda Active line further developed the firm’s version of luxury sportswear. The collection balanced performance with tailoring by developing technical fabrics in pure wool or stretch wool-nylon blends that have a freedom of movement. The collection’s palette combined seasonal colors with more technical and luminous hues. For the fall 2027 season, The Goat collection introduced an après-ski focus with wool and cashmere, with winter comfort and a refined sporty sensibility. Geometrics inspired by technical knitwear were designed for free motion while maintaining its functionality and elegance.

The textile mill also presented “Morpho, Reda by Dinamo Contemporary Fabrics,” a cultural and production lab between Reda’s manufacturing and Dinamo contemporary fabrics to help transform wool through material research, experimentation and an innovative finishing process. The project’s first interpretation, “Nine to Six,” a collaboration between Veramonteforte, Reda and Camera Buyer Italia, was presented at Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week.

MinervaHub, established in 2022 to protect and support a number of Italian manufacturers in the country’s supply chain that help create garments and accessories for leading international luxury fashion brands with their finishings, materials and services and led by president Matteo Marzotto, presented “Fashion in Bloom,” which was based on using the archive of its brands as a source for new developments. The focus was on the floral motif, treated as a recurring element in fashion. On display was a selection of garments from the Jato 1991 archive, spanning from the 1960s to the early 2000s. The selection included examples by Ken Scott, Valentino Garavani, Thierry Mugler, and Blumarine, showcasing different interpretations of the flower. From a production side,  the stand presented the craftsmanship of the group’s companies: Jato 1991 for archival garments, Goretti for finishes and details, Trapuntatura Belpunto for quilting, and Quake for industrial embroidery.

Fratelli Piacenza placed a strong emphasis on vicuña, offered both in pure form and in blends with cashmere, silk, linen, and Super 220’s wool. The collection emphasized mélange, mouliné, and frisé yarns to create movement and depth. In terms of patterns, it included micro designs, pied-de-poule, Prince of Wales, and overcheck, with constructions that recalled knitwear. There was also the introduction of Clima, a capsule collection that combined classic fabrics with technical jerseys to enhance comfort. Lanifico F.lli Cerruti 1881 focused on the hallmarks of British tailoring: checks, overchecks, cheviot, and pinstripes. Rendered in jacquard, these motifs gained depth and structure. The color palette went from navy blue, forest green, gray, tobacco, chocolate, to natural tones. The key novelty was Travelissimo, a bunch book designed for comfortable, practical travel wear.

One of the cultural highlights of the 43rd edition of Milano Unica was “The Radical Elegance,” an exhibition dedicated to Gian Paolo Barbieri, a leading figure in international fashion photography. Curated by Stefano Fadda and Antonella Matarrese, the exhibition spanned more than three decades of creative work and was organized into two sections. The first section focused on portraits taken between the 1960s and the early 1990s, capturing through faces some of the key figures who helped shape the history of fashion and international culture. The second section placed a selection of the photographer’s most iconic images in dialogue with the fair’s fall 2027 collections.