Upon returning to Paris after a stint at Pitti Uomo, Hed Mayner said spring 2027 was about “cleansing the silhouette, making it more simplified, pure and clear.”

The clothes might have appeared to be simple in shape, but they were rich to the touch, built around wardrobe staples with fabrics such as cool wools with shiny-matte contrasts, chalk-coated cotton, vegetable leather and pleated linen. “The sensation is of the clean and the crafty, the earthy and the ethereal crashing together,” he explained.

Spring 2027 represented a spontaneous, slightly chaotic attitude, Mayner added, one that’s not completely organized, as if pulling clothes at random from a wardrobe and discovering a new kind of elegance in the mix. Compact knits were layered on top of oversize T-shirts, crinkled shirts were thrown on loosely, and some looks repeated the same piece twice, as if it were worn with its own copy on top.

Footwear played an equally vital part in curating a season that’s both minimal and playful. He paired Aro mesh sneakers with a bi-color effect with wide-legged sheer trousers, and lined up heelless oxfords, soft moccasins and whipstitched boots from Sturlini with washed jeans, tailored trousers knotted to the side and leather shorts in lemon curd yellow.