Colors, craftsmanship — and, of course, crystals and rhinestones — took center stage at the Philipp Plein show, staged at his Milan showroom on Saturday evening.

“We keep our DNA, but we evolve with each collection. We’re heading into new directions. We’ve been adding more sartorial, classic pieces over the last couple of years; it’s been a real journey,” Plein said ahead of the show as final touches were made to models before they hit the catwalk.

For spring 2027, the designer drew inspiration from the cosmopolitan traveler. The collection featured structured tailoring, but with pops of color like orange, lilac, red and baby blue set against neutral tones such as beige and gray.

The lineup included suits paired with trousers or shorts and styled with colorful T-shirts; utility-inspired looks with textured leather bomber jackets featuring oversize flap pockets; cashmere sweaters, and lightweight cardigans. Streetwear, a brand signature, was highlighted in an allover monogram indigo denim look with wide-leg jeans and varsity-style jackets styled over hoodies.

“And then you also see our DNA,” Plein said, pointing to pieces adorned with embellishments, such as rhinestones and crystals, as in a black tailored suit elevated by intricate silver embroidery and a red-and-black plaid shirt adorned with sparkling crystals.

Accessories played a key role, too, such as white sneakers with blue and orange hues and black leather bags in different sizes and backpacks.

Plein embraced the eyewear trend of colored lenses for sunglasses and geometric designs for optical frames. “Eyewear is growing very well. We’ve added it to our family along with other categories, and it’s evolving and developing,” he said of the category, developed by Italian eyewear firm De Rigo.

As always, the show ended as a celebration, with high-energy music and a party atmosphere. For the final bow, Plein came out together with Egyptian actor and singer Mohamed Ramadan.