Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas that are reshaping the materials sector. It covers the latest developments in how fashion is designed, engineered, and scaled—from emerging biomaterials and next-generation leathers to engineered fibers and sustainable alternatives.

Kraig Biocraft Laboratories

Spider silk producer Kraig Biocraft Laboratories says the yield from its current production cycle is expected to exceed its initial targets by 20 percent. The Ann Arbor, Mich. firm uses genetically engineered silkworms to create and then harvest recombinant spider silk, the same protein-based material used by spiders for their webs.

While the current batch of cocoons will continue to be collected at Kraig Labs’ production facilities in the coming weeks, the company explained the results so far put it on target to surpass its most recent production cycle. Additionally, it noted promising signs for being able to scale up production and do large-volume batches, including “operational consistency.”

“At the beginning of this year, we laid out an aggressive production roadmap with a series of ambitious milestones,” said Kim Thompson, CEO and founder of Kraig Labs. “To date, we have successfully hit every major milestone on schedule and on budget. The yields we are seeing from this recombinant spider silk production run are exceeding our internal forecasts and expectations.”

Kraig Labs is already preparing for its next production cycle in June and July, which is projected to again expand volumes.

Said to be tougher than steel, these “super fibers” can be used for textile products like fashion apparel, sportswear, medical gear and military garb.

EC0Tex

As the industry looks to phase out PFAS due to regulations and environmental pollution concerns, the hunt is on to find the ideal alternative to the coatings’ water-, oil- and dirt-repellant properties. Materials and technology research firm Empa is collaborating with textile manufacturers Bäumlin & Ernst AG, Lothos KLG and Seilfabrik Ullmann AG to develop PFAS-free solutions that offer the same functionality.

The EC0Tex research initiative, which stemmed from the Subitex partnership between the Swiss Textile Association and Empa’s St. Gallen location, is focused on creating fluorine-free water-repellant plasma coatings for yarns. It is guided by the EU Safe and Sustainable by Design framework, and the research team led by Dirk Hegemann, Martin Amberg and Patrick Rupper is considering and balancing the needs of business, people and the environment, ensuring that solutions are both economically and sustainably viable. “When searching for alternatives to PFAS, it is important not to create so-called regrettable substitutes, i.e., substitutes that turn out to be just as harmful as the chemical originally used,” explained Hegemann.

To replicate the properties of PFAS-containing coatings using standard processes, Empa noted that it would require “excessive quantities” of PFAS-free solutions. With their industry partners, the researchers created a coating process that creates dry plasma from electric gas discharge, causing the chemicals to evaporate and adhere to individual yarn fibers, including reaching fibers in the yarn’s core. Empa sees these yarns as fit for outdoor attire, sportswear and ropes, and collaborators Lothos and Seilfabrik Ullmann plan to use the yarns for swimwear and water sports products.

The patented process earned an Innovation Award in the New Concept category at Techtextil in Frankfurt this April.

Empa is testing the use of organosilicon compounds as a PFAS alternative for fiber impregnation. Although they have shown durability that exceeds that of PFAS along with strong water repellency and quick drying capabilities, the research firm says there must be additional studies on the compounds’ safety.

Oeko-Tex

Testing and certification firm Oeko-Tex is marking the 10-year anniversary of its Eco Passport, a service that tests the safety of chemicals used in textile and leather production. Following laboratory tests, solutions that pass receive certification. To-date, over 65,000 products have been certified across more than 1,400 customers.

As Eco Passport reaches this milestone, Oeko-Tex is sharing insights from its 2025 lab tests, including four substances that are most often seen exceeding thresholds for safety, indicating potential risks to the environment and human health.

Quinoline, which is used for azo dyes, fluorescent effects on safety gear and as an additive in dye processing, is listed in California’s Prop 65 as a cancer-causing substance. Germany’s Institute for Occupational Safety of the German Social Accident Insurance’s guidelines for handling it include avoiding contact with skin and eyes by wearing gloves made of “impermeable” material and goggles and maintaining ventilation in the work areas. Out of 759 relevant tests, Oeko-Tex found 6.19 percent exceeded the threshold for quinoline, with the most commonly failed tests tied to 2.3 disperse dyes.

Aniline, a building block for synthetic dyes and a color stabilizer, is toxic to humans and the Environmental Protection Agency has classified it as a possible carcinogen. Oeko-Tex found that aniline levels were above the set limit in 5.02 percent of 1,793 tests. The most frequent substances flagged were 2.1 acid dyes, 2.8 vat and sulfur dyes and 7.1 acid dyes for leather.

Another substance, dimethyl fumarate (DMFU), is used to prevent mold, such as in desiccants. Contact with DMFU has been linked to skin reactions, including allergic contact dermatitis. EU REACH classified it as a substance of very high concern and has limited its concentration to 0.1 milligrams per kilogram. Oeko-Tex found that 4.01 percent of its 1,022 tests exceeded the threshold, most frequently tied to 2.3 disperse dyes.

Oeko-Tex’s Eco Passport measures total fluorine to determine the possible presence of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, or PFAS—forever chemicals that are increasingly facing bans. Oeko-Tex noted that its laboratories are finding an increasing existence of total fluorine, with 1.52 percent of 1,903 tests coming back above the limit. However, it said its Eco Passport PFAS results have stayed “low.” The company has developed a method that can identify whether fluorine present in an article is from a PFAS source or not.

Denmark’s Ready Project

Three years ago, Denmark launched the Ready project with the goal of becoming “a leader in sustainable textile production.” The research initiative recently wrapped with a final conference on May 19.

Ready was financially supported by Innovation Fund Denmark and partners including colleges and industry players like Bestseller and textile firm Kvadrat. The initiative set up a research and development factory at VIA University College, which was the base for collaboration between researchers and project partners. Among the goals were supporting circular business models, new materials and innovation in the industry. Through workshops, talks and tours, participants shared knowledge on topics ranging from linen weaving to incorporating used textiles into new designs.

Sharing its experience, Bestseller explained that Ready’s testing facilities allowed its group and other partners to try out materials before putting them into production. It wrote, “One important learning from Ready is that recycled and new alternative materials are not always a direct replacement for conventional fibers. Their performance can change depending on what they are made from, how they are processed and how they are used. This influences how a garment looks, feels and lasts over time. Because of this, material choices need to be made earlier in the design process and with more insight.”