You’ve heard of the French bob, known for its soft layers and eyebrow-skimming bangs but a new, sleeker haircut is making inroads. As seen on Lily Collins during her “Emily in Paris” press tour late last year as well as on Leslie Bibb, the iteration takes the classic cut and gives it a more geometric silhouette. Dubbed the Japanese bob, the sharp and clean shape is impactful albeit high maintenance — this isn’t a wash and go look, it requires a commitment to careful styling and semi-regular upkeep. Curious if it’s for you? Here’s a breakdown on what it is and what to ask for at the salon.

“The Japanese bob isn’t just a haircut, it’s about how a geometric line sits on the head,” explains Yuhi Kim, a celebrity and editorial hair stylist who counts Vogue, Adidas, and 3.1 Phillip Lim among her clients. To Kim, the blueprint comes from Rei Kawakubo, the avant-garde founder behind the cult favorite label Comme des Garçons. “I always come back to the minimal, almost radical sense of form that Kawakubo represents. It’s not about adding layers or movement, but really about reducing everything down to the shape itself.” That translates to asking your stylist for something that sits between the lip and chin with a very blunt, controlled perimeter. You don’t want volume or heavy layers, instead the design is compact and frames the face in an intentional way. And while she has cut a Japanese bob straight across, you can ask for a forward angle to help frame your face or add blunt bangs, as to make the look work for you.

But what about hair texture? Collins, Bibb, and Kawakubo have fairly straight strands but Kim says that this cut actually works across the board — just expect it to look slightly different. “Fine, soft hair naturally falls into a very clean, compact version of the bob. It almost holds the geometry on its own. Thicker or more textured hair brings a different energy—it becomes more sculptural, more dimensional,” she says. The trick is to work with your stylist to design something that suits your personal style. Also, consider tacking on other treatments like keratin or other straightening systems to help give the look structure. “It’s not just about making it straight, it’s also how controlled you want the silhouette to appear.” That said, you also need to consider how your hair grows out and the contrast between treated and untreated hair. That transition can also become a part of the design.

Styling and maintenance is where the commitment comes in. Given the Japanese bobs’ strong lines, it’ll require a trim every four to six weeks, otherwise you’ll lose its signature sharpness. And a blowout might not be enough — you may need to flat iron it, in order to achieve a clean, face hugging finish. Kim advises those who have more texture to also add in a light oil or cream, starting from the ends and working towards your nape. Whatever is left can be smoothed across the rest of the head. The result will leave strands looking glossy and polished. Regardless, Kim’s last piece of advice is to not overthink it. “It’s not about making it perfect. It’s more about keeping the bob intentional.”